As Nanluoguxiang and the surrounding hutongs continue to grow and change, Fú has appeared to show the neighborhood that careful, subtly designed concepts is a direction worth considering. The interior is gently dark, with fun touches like solid track lighting and an impressive wall of greenery, all real and nourished with a custom-built irrigation system.
The Ju’er hutong space is far larger than it appears, with bar and dining space upstairs and an attic space above that, which can be reserved for private events.
We won’t lie: Tapas at Fú are expensive, a splurge no matter how you order. Australian beef carpaccio (¥68) is ethereal, at perfect temperature and spice balance. But it’s here and gone like the morning dew, so small is the portion size. That goes for the marinated anchovies (¥38), as well, though the crispy potato cake puts bulk in the bites. The octopus and small squids (¥58) worked best for our table, all cooked to perfection to show off a variety of textures, and plenty for all to try.
Poached egg with sautéed organic mushrooms (¥48) were divine, if messy to share. Marinated Kalamata olives and grilled artichokes (¥48) deliver exactly that, the vegetable and the fruit both far more buttery than their store-bought cousins.
If there’s anything to say for tapas, it’s that smaller portions let you keep eating and eating. The 200-days grain-fed tenderloin (¥168) was excellent, properly seared and delivering rich, luxurious umami textures. Texture is the highlight of the vanilla semifreddo (¥38), too, pleasing us all with its combo of smooth and creamy with little bits of cookie crunch.
All of the above are best had with Fú’s impressive wine list. In what is perhaps a first for the city, all offerings are organic here. The Cuvelier Los Andes Malbec 2013 (Argentina, ¥595) was a refined partner to beef and olives, if a little reluctant to open up. Our table, strangely enough, preferred the less expensive Podere Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC 2015 (¥210). A rare Beijing sighting of California Chardonnay 2013 (Benziger, ¥390) turned out to be the most comprehensive pairing, good for everything from soup to dessert.