German Designer Janine Grosche on PATH
by cityweekend | Posted on Apr 12 2011 | Beijingologist 1 Comments | 0 Bookmarked
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German designer Janine Grosche talks about her menswear label PATH, what kind of men wear her designs and finding fashion inspiration in China. She'll be displaying her designs at Nuyishu, along with a host of other great art by women, which will be going on at the Loop, April 15-17.

Is it more difficult as a female designer to create fashion for men?

There are many male fashion designers who design for women. I wanted to reverse that and create from another point of view, and outside the usual system. For me personally, it’s quite the opposite of difficult. I feel more inspired and passionate when creating fashion for men.

I am constantly observing. Why do people choose to dress in a certain style and what is the idea behind that? In my designs i pay close attention to the cut, and soft tailoring. I like to use unusual materials. As a female designer doing menswear, it is important to me to question certain cliches in our society and push the boundaries.

Why did you choose the name PATH for your menswear label?

“Path” is a synonym for “way.” I see it as a direction to focus on in life ... it also relates to my own story as a designer starting out on my own, doing everything myself, from choosing fabrics to PR.

Who is a PATH man?

Definitely a man with a certain sensibility. PATH is subtle, not loud. The PATH man is strong, open to new ideas and able to appreciate design and quality.

Your most recent collection is called “Static Facileness.” What do you mean by the term?

With “Static Facileness” I wanted to create a very modern and sensitive men’s collection. It’s an expression of my interpretation of contemporary masculinity mixed with femininity through soft silhouettes. With my line I want to break with normal men’s fashion by giving them a softer look.

Though I titled my debut collection “Static Facileness,” the collection is not thematic. It’s a natural result of the work. The aesthetic is a consequence of how the experiences, the decisions and the fabrics end up behaving. Fabric especially has different textures, and in this collection the fabric is very light, which is important. There is no lining or shoulderpads to support the natural fall of the fabric or the flow of the material.

How has China influenced you creatively?

I’m rarely influenced by particular things, it’s usually a combination of things. It can be a certain mood, a picture, even a conversation or people themselves. I transmit all of these influences through my work.

In China I feel fascinated and inspired by really old and traditional things, like old Chinese photography I discover at art galleries. I love to rummage through hidden, dusty bookstores. I am fascinated of ancient Chinese wooden furniture and like to spend free Sundays at traditional markets where you can find real treasures sometimes.

Why show at Nuyishu?

Like the name already says, it is an event that celebrates women in art. It is not that I am a feminist, but I like when things have a concept and, therefore, a strong outline. I think it’s a great opportunity to get together with other women who work in different fields of art, like film, photography or music. I find it very interesting when all this power and creativity comes together. It’s nice to see women being independent and finding success in the areas of specialty.

What is it about fashion that fascinates you?

Fashion for me is a tool for self-expression and self-invention. Clothing acts as a secondary skin as well as being a visual and personal reflection of our selves. It’s identity. Fashion becomes inextricably implicated in constructions and reconstructions of identity. Through style and appearance, individuals announce who they are and who they hope to become, or express who they do not want to be or become.

But most fascinating for me is still the fact that the appearance of clothes totally changes depending on the individual wearing it. It really depends on the person and can totally change the visual identity of the clothes. A garment itself it can be beautiful, but it comes alive when the right person is wearing it, and then it actually shows it’s very own character.

Do you have any lines for women?

I don’ t have a line for women. In the future I will continue to focus on menswear, improve my design from collection to collection and establish my line. If I were to create a line for women it would be very androgynous, clean cuts, minimalist and pure in design. Maybe even close to my men's line, which already has a soft appearance in some pieces that could be worn by women. I have to admit that I wear some of the jackets myself from time to time.

What kind of fashion work have you done in China?

My first experience in China was in 2007 when I was selected in an international competition to show my graduate collection at the Hempel Award (China International Young Fashion Designers Contest) during China Fashion Week. I came back in the end of 2008 to work as a fashion designer for a Chinese brand, which belongs to Hempel Group.

I also worked as a freelance fashion designer and stylist for several artists and singers in China, designing unique outfits for stage performances and music videos.

Impelled by a vision of a new masculinity I launched my own label, PATH in the end of 2010, which will be available for order in the spring and summer of 2011.

1 Comments

so whats with this then? no more interesting info about subway lines? are we now getting paid puff-piece articles about crap no one cares about instead? why yes we are it seems.

Posted by mjtaylor 1 y, 1 m ago
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