Avoiding a touristy trunk full of junk

Being a bit of a seasoned Beijing shopper, the influx of tourists to our fair capital has got me thinking about the blast they’re going to have shopping. There’s simply too much to buy in China. Everything is made here, after all, but the sheer volume and variety could see tourists traveling home with a trunk full of junk.

While Beijing certainly has the mother lode when it comes to hokey knickknacks, there are also some real treasures to be found – some touristy-kitsch and others curiously valuable, both in terms of memorabilia and actual preciousness. Forget the watches, stuffed pandas and postcards. Why not think outside the Tian’anmen square?

Instead of an I Heart BJ t-shirt, get a retro Chinese print from Plastered T-shirts from 80RMB – the subway ticket and taxi fare prints will make you look like a real local. Teen girls should snaffle a copy of Chinese Vogue from street vendors; it represents one of China’s fastest growing industries – high fashion.

Panjiayuan “antiques” market (remember, there are no antiques left in China – none you could afford, anyway – apologies if you are Bill Gates or the Sultan of Brunei) is an absolute must-see for parents who love bric-a-brac. Bargain like a demon but remain calm and friendly and you’ll get your price. This is a real treasure-trove of finds, from original art to stone carvings, bronze statues and clunky baubles for the kids.

Also have a wander along the famous Liulichang “antiques” street for chops, traditional paint brushes for the kids, art books and beautiful writing paper. Bric-a-brac treasures like cast iron clocks and old coins abound. Kids will love choosing a “chop” – a small rectangle of stone which can be carved with their name or a Chinese character; a personalized stamp for life. Don’t forget a traditional red-inked stamp pad – chops should cost no more than 80RMB, depending on the stone used. Bargain hard – this is a tourist street, after all.

If you visit the Drum and Bell Tower, be sure to stop off in the small minority shops you’ll find in the square – their wares are nothing like you’ll find at markets – from small drums to wooden toys to hand-made, beautifully crafted leather bags and heavily embroidered baby slippers.

Gem stones and precious metals are a must-buy in China, though remember that Chinese jade is either non-existent or will cost you the equivalent of a flight home. Pick up a sterling silver pendant at Ya Show market in a Chinese character – luck, love, happiness – for as little as 20RMB. A stack of 15 silver bangles lashed together should cost no more than 50RMB. If you have daughters, invest in a good set of pearls. Beijing’s authentic, lustrous creations will set you back five to ten percent of the cost at home; go to the Pearl Market’s (Hongqiao) fourth floor and ask them to show you some genuine quality.

Other market gems, in no particular order – sandalwood fans, quilts, pashminas, woven silk, little Chinese dresses (qi pao) and slippers, shoes with flashing lights for toddlers, silk bags with bamboo handles, and Chinese zodiac animals carved from jade stone. Don’t forget an alarm clock with Chairman Mao waving merrily – an absolute imperative.

And my all-time favorite? Low on class, high on kitsch, our family’s prized possession is a Lucky Cat, spray-painted gold and beckoning mountains of fortune into our house with its perpetually waving paw.

When it comes to shopping, I heart China.

Tania McCartney

A hot tip: when it comes to price at markets, a general rule is to halve it and halve again. Try to have fun bargaining – it is not a war and a smile will always bring a better price. Don’t waste precious time and a migraine on bargaining over 5 or 10RMB – these people often don’t make much on their wares, so focus on the spirit of the sale, rather than the angst of chasing the rock-bottom deal. Above all else, remember that if you love the item and the price suits you, you’ve got yourself a true bargain.