The first time I tried foie gras was in Beijing at the Legendale Hotel’s French restaurant Petrus. I remember my taste buds feeling quenched with a fried buttery sensation. Since then, I’ve had plenty of opportunities to enjoy goose liver. But recently, California decided to ban foie gras. I probably will never understand how gluttony is a bad thing, so I decided to explore goose liver in the city—before it’s banned.

Foie gras cannot be imported to China, so most hotels and restaurants source from Rougie, a French company that produces locally. “They deliver their liver just like in France, which makes the flavor as good. To replicate the French taste is the only way to follow the recipe,” says Brasserie Flo’s chef Bertrand Combe.

With the ban starting in the States, I started thinking of the shark fin disputes and asked some chefs if they thought foie gras would ever reach the same level of protest. Brian McKenna, chef and owner of ROOMbeijing says, “Personally I think the general public still lacks education on the subject, so they choose one [opinion] or the other without really knowing. As with most things, there are those that do an amazing job producing foie gras and others that are terrible. Better regulations should come into force, but a ban ... I hope not.” I’m looking forward to trying some of his new innovative dishes in the coming months, especially the foie gras with peanut butter and popcorn, which sounds like a fun carnival-spin on French tradition.

Opposite House food and beverage director Philipp Blaser is a foie gras enthusiast. “The gastronomic answer as to why people love foie gras so much is that it’s rich in flavor, partly because it’s so fatty,” he explains. “Chefs and restaurateurs are passionate about it because it’s delicious, and the smooth texture of the terrine or whole seared piece offers a variety of experiences.” Sureno’s higado con miel (¥88) is a pan-seared goose liver bruschetta, served atop savory olive tapinade, with orange honey blossom and pickled lemon. At first bite it gives off a savory, rich, creamy taste but ends with a light, refreshing citrus note. Bei’s miso foie gras (¥158), is marinated goose liver terrine with miso mustard sauce and eel. Spread this frosty paste on their homemade crackers for a delectable appetizer of modern flavors.

Beijing has plenty of chefs that believe foie gras is here to stay, and as a dedicated foodie, I look forward to trying the assortment of foie gras varieties from classic to contemporary.