After a month of renovations, Bei has relaunched. There is now a sophisticated lounge area at the entrance, and part of what was before a long corridor leading into the dining room is now home to several tables, partially walled off for a little extra privacy. Some of the private dining area is now a bit more open, and the private rooms can be combined for large parties by opening a sliding screen.

First-time diners should get acquainted with Bei’s unique offerings via the two seasonal set menus. The ¥288 three-course meal (starter, main course and dessert) is the best bang for your buck. For your main, don’t miss out on the amberjack with crunchy poached egg, sushi rice and soy beans. The fish is substantial, and the egg is beautifully done. Alternately, throw down ¥358 for a four-course tasting menu.

In terms of à la carte offerings, Bei excels in cold starters. The saltwater tofu (¥58), made in-house and served with six different sauces and seasonings, is a must. The incredibly tender uzakyu (¥78), steamed and grilled freshwater eel with sweet vinegar, salted cucumber and ground black sesame, is another highlight. For a light yet satisfying dessert, try the hazelnut tofu (¥28). The artistically presented sweet is served with a tart passion fruit sauce for an extra burst of flavor. Through the end of March, Bei’s giving 20 percent off to all diners, so now’s the perfect time to check out the refurbished digs and latest menus.

Sienna Parulis-Cook

Find it: LG Floor, The Opposite House, Bldg 1, 11 Sanlitun Rd, 三里屯路11, Tel: 6410-5230