Nanluoguxiang | Fish Nation

Relaxing on the roof terrace on a summer’s evening, stars above and trendy shoppers in the hutong below, this is the choice for old Beijing charm. The fish and chips here (¥49) suggest that the frying oil has perhaps been used once too often, leaving the batter a little heavy and greasy. But the whole dish has an authentic British chippy smell. Except for the reasonable Greek salad that accompanies it, this is fish and chips done the old school way. Wrap it in newspaper, serve it on a rainy Glasgow side street at 3am, and it would fit right in.

Find it: 31 Nanluoguxiang, Gulou. Near Gulou Dong Da Jie, 交道口南锣鼓巷31号, Tel:6401-3249

Chaoyang Park | All-Star Bar & Grill

The priciest fish and chips in town (¥78) also provides the most generous portion. Here you get three fist-sized chunks of fish with little bowls of tartar sauce and mushy peas. All-Star piles their fish on top of thin-cut American-style fries rather than the thick-cut British variety. The fish is tasty, though. The crunchy batter contains crumbly yet moist white fish flesh.

Find it: Solana #5-1,6 Chaoyang Park Rd, On the east side of the Solana Center, closer to the north gate of Chaoyang Park, 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号Solana色港湾国商区 5-1, Tel: 5905-6999

CBD | International Food Warehouse

IFW serves up Beijing’s classy fish and chips (¥58). The sleek, clean design of IFW in the basement of Jianwai SOHO is excellent. Think steel, glass, wood and spices in tall glass jars. Service is attentive, and the wait staff all speak reasonable English. The fish was perfectly cooked: delicate, moist, flavorsome and encased in a crispy batter shell that miraculously stayed shiny without being greasy. The fat chips tasted of fresh potato, not re-used oil. Frankly, we’d be happy to be served fish and chips this good anywhere in the world.

Find it: Basement of Park Life, Beijing Yintai Center,CBD/Guomao, C exit of Guomao Subway Station, 北京银泰中心地下一层. Tel: 8567-1568

David McNeill