Did somebody finally call up the French Interprofessional Committee for Fattened Waterfowl (this organization exists, I kid you not: see here) and drop the hint that all things duck are pretty popular ‘round these parts?

Or maybe, the squads of Chinese businessmen who prove their sophistication to international counterparts by spending excessively on orders of showy imports like Wagyu beef or the omni-present Rothschild Lafitte are enticing luxury food producers in-market.

Whatever it is, looks like there’s new game in town to challenge Beijing Kaoya. Until China’s animal rights laws catch up with the other parts of the world which restrict the contentious gavage (fattening) techniques, doesn’t look like foie gras will go away. Rooted in practices over 6,000 years old, maybe we in China can learn a thing or two from a delicacy dating back to Ancient Egypt.

Restaurants are rising to the occasion, taking steps to innovatively integrate both the duck and goose versions into Asian-style dishes ( foie gras de canard and foie gras d’oie, respectively). Blu Lobster 's Chef McKenna includes goose liver on his Chef’s Tasting Menu as part of an amuse bouche trio called foie gras with caramelized rice, thus merging Chinese tastes with foreign techniques. By working closely with a local farm to raise the birds according to Blu’s standards, his team is able to make the global truly local.

Paper 's 11-dish tasting menu, a light and fresh affair, took the Asian-fusion extravaganza a step in the Western direction by serving an imported and seaweed-wrapped goose foie gras, which was then tempura fried to be dipped in soy sauce with wasabi. Owner Cho’s rendition proved light—with a rich, creamy kick rarely experienced in traditional sushi.

And this month, on Financial Street, The Westin’s menus are literally overflowing with the delicacy in coordination with the China-side arrival of France’s Rougié brand (considered by many the world’s premier foie gras producer). Under the direction of Head Chef Christoph Suter, both the hotel’s Italian-style Prego and Chinese jump-off, Jewel, are taking advantage of uncharted territory and sheer abundance of guts (I mean, liver) to interpret duck parts anew.

Raw Scallop Sushi with Duck Liver Cubes on a Spinach-Potato Mousseline results in a delicately rich tartar the like of which neither salmon nor steak can attempt (the first would have been too sharp, the other too dull and predictable). As for the Chinese menu, everyone’s favorite Steamed Xiao Long Bao gets remade with a Duck Liver filling. And what would a marriage of the best of the West and East be sans (Escalope of) Duck Liver cooked in—you guessed it, I’m sure: Shark’s Fin Soup?!

And why not? Palettes are a-changing, luxury is a-waiting, and wallets, they are a-fattening (as are the ducks and geese). But this isn’t anything too new: Da Dong, Li Qun and Quan Ju De have been serving the fatty parts of the birds for years, at a premium, no less. But that was just skin-deep: foie gras pushes the trend in-wards toward innards—and beyond.