Billed as the culinary event of the year, the arrival of elBulli Chef Albert Adria was an event for foodies around the capital. Known for his pioneering techniques in molecular gastronomy, Chef Adria helms a restaurant that only the rich and the connected have the honor of gracing. I was lucky enough to score a ticket to Chef Adria’s “A Day at elBulli” master class held last Thursday at the UCCA in the 798 art district. While I definitely enjoy degustation menus and chef’s tables, my joy comes from cooking—it’s my creative outlet. I can combine simple white beans, a couple tough cuts of meat, thyme and a little love to a pot and hours later enjoy (my version of) cassoulet. Better yet, I can invite a herd of my wine-toting friends and simple dinner turns into an impromptu party. My point being, I was extremely excited, not about elBulli itself, but what I could learn from one of the finest chefs in the world.
After a generous cocktail hour, the presentation began with a documentary on the humble beginnings of elBulli, replete with commentary on earning, losing and the triumph of regaining Michelin stars. Following an additional video on basic knife skills (paired with some painfully awkward translation), we finally started Chef Adria’s cooking demonstration. Though he walked through several interesting dishes, like shaved cucumber and pomelo with soy-chili dressing, and seared sea bass with enoki mushroom noodles, there was no gastronomic revelations, like how to make bacon powder or pull fois gras cotton candy. By 1045pm, the savory, rich smells of the razor clams with sliced leeks and foam and the roasted persimmons with green tangerine-zested honey wafted over the cavernous space. But, disappointingly, there was no tasting offered with the ticket.
On a lighter note, I was pleased to see several local chefs, like Billy from Chef Too and Ferdy from The Meat & Wine Company, enjoying the evening. I also applaud the local host, Brian McKenna, for orchestrating Chef Adria’s visit and bringing one of the finest culinary minds on the planet to Beijing. Bravo.
