Currying Flavor

Mirch Masala’s new branch at Ritan is all gussied up, with a small dining room dressed in royal purples and vivid reds, drapes of gold silk skimming the floor and elaborate chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. The staff is friendly, and with the restaurant off to a slow start, the managers are eager to chat about the subcontinent and scoop rice and raita onto your plate whenever you’re looking overwhelmed by the spice—which happens often if you ask for your Goa fish curry (¥50) extra hot. The heat of the tangy, fragrant tomato sauce sneaks up, spreading and building in a crescendo until speech is difficult. Not all dishes are such zingers, though. The navratan korma (¥25) is as sweet as the fish curry is piquant. Slightly toasty cauliflower and other veggies are held together in a thick, creamy sauce speckled with raisins. The naans (¥10–15) are crispy on the bottom, soft and doughy on top, and the tandoori mix starter (¥90) is a meal unto itself. Don’t miss the bargain ¥35 lunch buffet.

Xiyun Yang