Tucked in a Sanlitun back alley famous for long-loved residents Alameda and Kiosk, Sushi Midorikawa doles out standard Japanese fare in a district redolent with competition. Our nicely presented 16-piece sushi platter (¥220) was a true assortment, though we would have preferred more of the salmon and scallop. The veggie tempura (¥50) met our expectations, but this and the sushi both failed to exceed Hatsune’s offerings. The cold tofu (¥20) was disappointing in its preparation (fresh from the ¥3 carton) and flavor—vegetarians would be more impressed with Bei’s house-made tofu. The eel and cucumber in vinegar (¥35) was the highlight, though the simple miso soup (¥15), with its seaweed and clams, may be the best in the area. The service is fairly standard, and everything was fetched with a sense of purpose. The small dining area has several private rooms, but we suggest wrangling a seat at the sushi bar for a view of the hard working chefs. Midorikawa offers tasty tidbits, but compared to the area’s Japanese powerhouses, its strength may lie in its intimate environment. We recommend going at lunch; the ¥85-120 sets are good value.

Phoenix Torrijos

Find it: Nali Mall, 18 Sanlitun Beilu, 三里屯北路18号, Tel: 6416-4861