It’s hard to believe that it has only been two years since SALT burst onto the Beijing culinary scene. Back then, there was no Mosto, or Ch'ienmen 23 to speak of, though Alameda (another Gaby Alves venture) was in its hey-day. SALT pushed local diners to celebrate contemporary restaurants as destinations unto themselves, rather than accept novelty imitations. Its opening was a hallmark of the dynamic times in the culinary landscape of Beijing. Though the restaurant has weathered a change in its head chef and slowly tweaked its menu under the guidance of cherub-faced Chef Ana Esteves, innovation has propelled SALT to the top of its game. I lunched with Ana after she first arrived in Beijing. As a young chef, and one of the only female heads chefs in the city, there was a burden of responsibility and a great opportunity to make SALT’s kitchen her own. As a foodie, I’m happy to see how SALT has evolved.

On Saturdays, Ana serves up a Brazilian Feijoada, a Portuguese influenced comfort dish, comprised of beans, home-made sausage, pork ribs, spring greens, pork crackling and seasoned rice. SALT has also added a Sunday brunch featuring treats like fig pancakes with Parma ham and truffle honey and polenta with bacon, truffles and a poached egg (2 courses RMB138, 3 courses RMB158, plus extra for free-flow alcohol). Though I love Beijing’s hotel brunches, I welcome the option to enjoy a bubbly breakfast in a more intimate environment. One of my favorite additions at SALT is the chef’s masterclass. It’s not cheap (RMB588), but it includes the preparation, cooking techniques, plate presentation of four to five courses, recipe pack, a SALT Apron and T-Shirt, plus wine pairing. The classes are limited to 10 people, so it’s a great way to get a little face time with an incredible chef.

Hearty congratulations to SALT on their second anniversary and best wishes for many more to come!