I love Thailand. It’s where all good food writers go when they die. On a recent trip to paradise on earth, I was reminded of all the ways I lust after the sweet, spicy, acidic preparation of achingly fresh ingredients. Luckily, Thai food resonates with many Chinese diners, who value meticulously sourced products and perspiration-inducing heat. It gives me great hopes for the future of the spate of Thai restaurants that have opened (or re-opened) on the east side of town.

Bali Papaya, in Nali Patio, the new “it location,” serves a swath of Southeast Asian fare in a serene environment. The shrimp and Thai crispy tiles (¥45) combine chicken and shrimp meat into something like a traditional Thai fish cake, layered with crisp, fried spring roll pastry leaves. The chicken with cashew nuts (¥48) is tasty but fell short of expectations due to its Chinese-style preparation. Don’t miss the deftly mixed mango lassi (¥38).

Purple Haze Bistro, relocated to a Dongsiliutiao hutong, continues to offer the flavorful renditions of Thai food that have kept Purple Haze going strong for five years. The Thai crab cake with mango salsa (¥55) was our favorite, until the roasted duck and lychee salad with watercress (¥48) arrived. If one could use a single dish to judge all Thai restaurants, of course, it would be the pad Thai (¥35). As owner Tobi Demker explains, “Pad Thai [preference] is a deeply personal choice, though I prefer ours, which is quite spicy, but not that sweet.” The menu is currently undergoing revisions due to the small hutong kitchen, but the same flavors and hospitality continue in the new location.

The new kid on the block in the Gongti neighborhood, Laburnum is taking Thai cuisine high-class while catering to local tastes. The beautiful tropical decor, with dark wood and vibrant hues, portends the flavorful Southeast Asia fare offered on the menu. Undeniably, the signature dish is the coconut curry hard shell crab (¥138). The sweet crab holds up to the flavorful sauce to create a heady combination. The seafood tom yum (¥29/79) is the best we’ve had in the city. While the service is still maturing and not all dishes impress (avoid the durian ice cream), the relaxing atmosphere and chic clientele signals the arrival of a new Workers Stadium hotspot.

Though the city has several well-established Thai options, I think competition is a good thing. The real winners, of course, are us epicureans, who now have more places and neighborhoods to explore tropical Thai fare.