Susu was one of those restaurants with an epic “soft opening” period, but the restaurant launched a full menu in November, with plenty of new mains and appetizers that highlight hearty, homestyle Vietnamese fare, as well as the lighter, more tropical dishes for which the cuisine is better known.

Our absolute favorite new dish is the crispy tofu salad (¥68), one of Susu’s new vegetarian options. The flat strips of tofu are crisp on the outside and soft in the center, served warm atop a bed of cold rice vermicelli, mixed greens, bean sprouts and mint. It’s seasoned with generous black pepper, and dressed with a slightly sweet soy-based sauce.

Many of the dishes offer heartier tastes than one generally associates with Vietnamese food. The “good neighbor’s peppery pork” (¥78) is true comfort food, with tender strips of pork caramelized in a delicious fish sauce and served with rice. The lemongrass chili chicken (¥78) is another Vietnamese homestyle favorite, with a light, stimulating spiciness that will warm you on cold winter evenings. The shaking beef (¥98) is one of the restaurant’s more popular dishes, a French-influenced platter of beef cooked with onions and green peppers, served with sweet potatoes in place of the more traditional French fries.

In terms of lighter fare, we highly recommend the country bamboo soup (¥48), with ultra tender bamboo shoots, tomato and fish cooked in a light, lime-infused broth. The fish cakes (¥58) are another nice addition to the menu, thick, fried freshwater bass and fennel cakes served with a tangy sweet and sour sauce.

Find it: Qianliang Hutong, West Alley No. 10 钱粮胡同西巷10号, Tel: 8400-2699