The words Syrah and Shiraz describe one grape, but allude to a world of difference. Syrah’s natural home is the northern part of France’s Rhône Valley, where wines include the rustic Cornas, the more feminine St. Joseph, and of course the ineffable pair of Côte Rôtie and Hermitage (try the Cave de Tain Hermitage 2005 at Capital M and Café Europa). These Syrah share one common trait: ancient and miserly granite soils, steep slopes and the famous mistral wind that cools, desiccates and keeps yields to a minimum. But in much of the New World, especially Australia, the grape benefits from uninhibited access to sun and ripening ease. There it can reach the big berried, sugar-laden ripeness it is capable of. But a new generation of winemakers, including the award-winning Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz, have been influenced by the Rhône. It comes from a mountainous, granite-rich area which boasts high altitude vineyards and a year-round wind not unlike the mistral. Try a Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz 2004 from the The Wine Republic for ¥767.

Matt Bahen