Cafe Sambal 'Sambal - A fresh or cooked relish served in small amounts to add zest to a meal.' Encyclopedia of Asian Food by Charmaine Solomon.

Having lived in Malaysia I had high expectations of Cafe Sambal, a restaurant that bills itself as serving authentic Malaysian cuisine. My tastebuds tingled with excitement at the thought of being transported to the world of spicy and complex Malaysian flavors. Would I get a fix of blacan, the pungent shrimp paste? And how authentic would the sambal really be?

Tucked behind the Bell Tower's northwest corner, Cafe Sambal's entrance, marked by a red lantern, is so low-key that it can easily be missed. Inside, the bar's contemporary yet cosy decor contrasts with the small dining area's eclectic mix of furniture.

The short and straightforward menu focuses on Malay as opposed to Malaysian cuisine with one digression to Vietnam for spring rolls and a second to Indonesia for duck. This is traditional fare with dishes such as Beef Rendang, Curry Fish Head, Satay, Prawn Sambal and Gula Melaka.

When eating a spicy cuisine, I think about how I am experiencing the chillies. Are they fiery? Subtle? Challenging? Addictive? Do they blend with the other flavors or overwhelm them? Cafe Sambal's cooks rise to this challenge by carefully controlling the chillies such that each bite plays across the palate.

The appetizers were delicious. Acar Acar - pickled carrot and cucumber in a slightly sweet yet tangy peanut sauce - was lively and light. The chilli kick arrived slowly with a subtle burning sensation in the throat and then gently dropped off. The Chicken Satay was a variation on the usual skewers. Tender pieces of chicken sat on slices of cucumber topped with a traditional satay sauce packed with a perfect balance of peanuts, chillies, sugar and spices.

Other dishes were equally good. The Prawn Sambal - a brightly colored dish of shallots, red and green peppers, chillies and prawns - delivered an initially fierce heat that then diminished to reveal a delightful sauce with pungent blacan playing a key but not overwhelming role. Kapitan Chicken Nyonya Curry Chicken (here Nyonya refers to a particular cooking style of Malaysia's Straits Chinese) was large pieces of chicken smothered in a thick sauce whose carefully nuanced flavors along with a seemingly choreographed rise and fall of the chillies' punch was addictive. The sensational stir-fried Kang Kong (Water Spinach) with a healthy dose of blacan, thin strips of red chillies and huge chunks of garlic was a perfectly executed dish. Aubergine with Dried Prawns was the one disappointment as the dried prawns provided the only texture and lasting impression amongst cubes of soft aubergine. The food's simple presentation on white plates accented its vibrant colors.

After a considerable wait, desserts arrived. The Gula Melaka's palm sugar buried below hot sago and warm coconut milk created a lovely layered effect of flavors and textures. The Bubur Caca, on the other hand, was over the top sweet.

Our meal encompassed a wide range of flavors, each dish distinct from the others and no single dish dominated the palate. Had the prawns not been overcooked and the chicken in the curry more succulent, our taste buds would have been even happier.

The short but comprehensive drinks list should satisfy most customers with reasonably priced beer, cocktails, soft drinks and wines by the glass and bottle. The limejuice was refreshing and well suited the food's spiciness.

While the service was friendly, it was not flawless. Our food arrived before our cutlery and the same happened to a nearby table. Also, the satay is listed as an appetizer but appeared well into the meal. That said, this is one of the few places in Beijing where the wait staff ask if you are enjoying the food. A sign of deserved confidence.

Cafe Sambal achieves its aim of serving authentic Malaysian cuisine and does so with good, honest cooking at a reasonable price.

Food: 4 out of 5
Decor: 4 out of 5
Service: 3 out of 5
Price: Y360 for 2 appetizers, 4 dishes, 2 dessert and 3 lime juices.