Going ethnic in Beijing

Not so long ago, there was a straightforward choice when it came to eating minority food: Ambience or authenticity. Here in Beijing, each of the country’s provinces and autonomous regions have a local government office serving up bona fide versions of local dishes from Sanya to Sichuan. Delicious and often reasonable, yes, but somewhere you’d take a date? Er, no. The strip lighting at the Xinjiang representative office near the Beijing Zoo can put you right off your chuan’r even though it’s as long as your arm, and the mouth-pursing tartness of the dishes at the Guangxi government-run office is only matched by the sourness of the service.

But you no longer need ponder this problem because, as interest in regional food has grown, a full-blown flood of excellent minority eateries have now opened their doors. From Dali comes Dali, a new-comer to the restaurant scene which has earned kudos for its beautiful courtyard as well as the freshness of its ingredients. From the delicious Zhejiang cuisine at artist Ai Weiwei's urban-chic restaurant Qu Nar, to the three branches of arty South Silk Road serving up Yunnan staples in stylish surrounds, the business of upscale minority dining has never been better.

From their rustic and funky surroundings, In and Out brings dishes from picturesque Lijiang to the heart of Sanlitun, and is full of happy diners every night despite only opening last September. The waitresses wear traditional Naxi minority outfits and smile as they serve. If you ask nicely, a waitress will even oblige with a short song. Despite not usually being a fan of entertainment served up with my meal, the voices are enchanting and intoxicating.

Guo Jian also knows the importance of pleasing the customer, as crowds at all five branches of Three Guizhou Men are packed out night after night. Guizhou may be one of China’s poorest provinces, but it is home to one of the country’s most vibrant food cultures. Guizhou native and artist Guo Jian has been at the forefront of the campaign to revolutionize minority dining. “When we opened our first restaurant three years ago, we didn’t know if it would be popular,” Guo says. “The three of us owners grew up together and really missed food from home and wanted to open somewhere that would serve as our canteen.”

He feels that there weren’t any great places in Beijing to experience Guizhou’s spicy and unique flavours. “At the time, Beijing just didn’t have the kind of restaurant which served up authentic food in a nice environment, so that’s why we became popular.” Qian Xiaoying, a recent arrival from Kaili in Guizhou agrees that the food at Three Guizhou Men’s Gongti branch is authentic. As she tucks into yet another bowl of suantangyu with extra chilli sauce, the marketing assistant says: “It may be expensive, but I love this place. The dishes stop me from feeling homesick.”

So does this mean that there could be tough times ahead for Beijing restaurateurs as customers seek out exotic cuisines that make local dishes seem a bit, well, bland and greasy? Qian Xiaoying says no. “You have to remember that dishes like douzhi and Beijing kaoya are exotic to me and other visitors to Beijing.” When it comes to the restaurant scene in the capital, variety is indeed the spice of life.