Pauper's Feast
by cityweekend | Posted on May 10 2007 | The Dish 0 Comments | 0 Bookmarked
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Here's how to dine in style without breaking the bank

Shaking my wallet upside down to see if any ¥100 notes would magically appear, I began to doubt the wisdom of last month’s holiday fling to Thailand. The thought of reigning in my food budget. however, makes my heart sink and stomach grumble. It’s a hard life for a foodie with a pauper’s purse. I know Beijing has more than its fair share of backstreet dives, but sometimes I need a change from tables covered with greasy plastic. And what girl looks good under gruesome strip lighting? So, I’ve convinced myself that cheap is in. For the next few weeks, anyway. The foolproof way to eat out for peanuts is to reverse normal eating habits. Instead of going out in the evening, I’m gorging at lunch. Not only is this supposed to be healthier anyway, but it also means I can take advantage of the many fabulous lunch deals around town. Now that Beijing favorite Alameda has gone up to ¥158 for two courses in the evening, it’s a special occasion place for me, I’m afraid. But you can get basically the same menu at lunchtime for ¥60. Judging by the number of regulars packing out the place, other people have the same problem.

If ¥60 is still a little on the high side, another regular haunt is Java and Yangon on Sanlitun Xiwujie. This cheerful little eatery serves up two courses of spicy and filling Indonesian food for just ¥38 and is always full of happy punters on lunch break.

To broke Beijingers, those Sunday brunch buffets served up at fancy hotels are oh-so-tempting and oh-so-off-limits. While I can justify many things when it comes to food, spending ¥400 on one meal plus the standard 15 percent service charge (which I never get–it’s a buffet, right? Doesn’t that mean that you’re doing the serving?) is not an option. So, kudos to the lovely people at the Vineyard Café and Café Europa for brightening my Sundays. While my rich friends roll out of their hotel brunches considerably fuller and considerably poorer, I head to one of these relaxing venues for a freshly prepared breakfast. The Vineyard’s light and airy courtyard and supply of magazines keeps me happy, as does the ¥60 breakfast deal which includes coffee and freshly squeezed juice. If you’re after more of a genuine restaurant experience, Chef Tal Surmon’s new brunch menu at Café Europa is a steal. The sleek eatery is usually off-limits when the bills start to pile up, but even at my poorest I can scratch together ¥50.

Beijing’s many delis also provide reflief for the pauper gourmand. If you’re in the area after 8pm, Bento and Berries at the Kerry Centre is heaven for cheapskate. All those delicious cakes are half-price (try a slab of Beijing’s best Sacher cake if I haven’t bought it all) for a mere ¥10. I was raised by a budget-minded mother with a healthy disregard for “use by” dates, so I often buy one of their delicious parma ham and Italian cheese ciabattas or bagels and have it for lunch the next day. For ¥14, I think it’s worth the risk, though maybe the egg mayonnaise is perhaps best-avoided.

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