Seeking out the historic communities of Kaifeng, Henan, in the modern age

At the top of the steep staircase leading to the fourth floor of the Kaifeng Museum stands a locked wrought iron gate. In order to gain entry to the exhibition hall detailing the city's Jewish history, one needs special permission from the museum director. The guard assures us we are welcome to look around as he opens the gate. Just don't take any pictures inside.

Once inside, we peer into glass cabinets that are covered in a thick layer of dust, holding two of the museums most unique exhibits - the 500-year-old stone steles that record the history of Kaifeng's Jewish history.

Tracks of Time

Kaifeng was the capital of China during the Northern Song Dynasty, in 960-1126. At that time, the city known as Bianliang was one of the biggest cities in the world. Located on the southern bank of the Yellow River near its junction with the Grand Canal, its role was one of east-west trade center connecting countries across Asia and beyond.

Today, first impressions of the Henan town near the border with Shandong province offer little reminders of the former glory days. Its former days of prosperity long gone, it now takes the form of a gray developing city. But scratch the surface, and under a thick layer of grime lies a city that maintains cultural and historic gems that include some of the most beautiful Buddhist and Muslim temples in China, hidden among the hutongs (alleys) of the old city.

The origins of the Jewish community in Kaifeng date back to the 11th century, during the Northern Song Dynasty, when the first Jewish traders made their way from India on the backs of camels as they traveled the Silk Road. The original settlement of Jewish families in the city is believed to have been made up of 70 families and an estimated 500 people.

It wasn't until the 12th century that China's first Jewish community gained a focus, with the establishment of the first synagogue, in Kaifeng in 1163. Marco Polo then wrote the first Western reference to an existence of Jewish life in China in 1286.

The community reached its peak during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), with more than 5000 Jewish residents in Kaifeng; the emperor even went so far as to grant the Kaifeng Jewish seven Chinese family names (Ai, Shi, Gao, Zhao, Zhang, Li and Jin).

By the mid-19th century, the community was in decline, however, and the Rabbi of Kaifeng died without successor. Ironically, it was tolerance of Jewish culture by the local Chinese that played a part in this decline, with intermarriage widely accepted.

Tracking the growth of Kaifeng's Jewish residents through the 20th century as family records were kept of patriarchal ancestors - rather than matriarchal ancestors, which is how Jewish family lines are followed. In the early 1950s, two community leaders traveled to Beijing to bid for special minority rights; the fact that they looked Chinese, used no language other than Chinese, and no longer practiced special traditions meant their application was not granted.

Nowadays, it is estimated approximately 600 people in China count themselves as descendents of Kaifeng's Jewish community. Walking through present-day Kaifeng city, most sites of former Jewish habitation are now used for other purposes, and in place of the synagogue is now the Number Four City Hospital. Records have it that the synagogue was built in the style of a Chinese temple, inside a garden compound. Today, the only evidence of the former synagogue is water in a well that can still be heard beneath the floor of the hospital's steam room.

As for the places formerly known as the Jewish Hutong and the Jewish Quarter, little evidence remains. "This place was half Jewish and half Muslim," recollects resident Moshe Zhang, one of Kaifeng's remaining Jewish leaders. "We always lived peacefully together here." For elderly residents like Zhang, the former hutongs were where they grew up and played. Some of the elderly residents resting in the afternoon sun remember the Jewish families who formerly lived here, but they say they have since moved on.

Zhang elected to be the head of the local Jewish community, and is the main force behind keeping the spirit of Judaism alive in Kaifeng. The tradition of not eating pork remains - helped by the Muslim community also keeping the same rule - but few other traditions are observed.

These days, though, the local government has started to recognize the tourism potential in Kaifeng's status as the former center of the Jewish community. Three exhibition halls were established in the Qingming Theme Park, which is now one of the city's biggest tourism attractions. The park was designed along the lines of a seven-meter Northern Song painting, that includes the image of merchants arriving at the city gates on camels - something that Zhang points to with obvious pride and identifies them as probably the first Jewish people to arrive in the city.

Aside from the theme park, there is little that constitutes a tourism trade, and exploring the city gives the visitor the impression that what Kaifeng has on offer can no longer be found in other cities in China. Reminders of a prosperous past, such as the Daxiangou Temple, Dragon Pavillion, and Iron Pagoda are some of the most beautiful sites around.

While there are various official efforts to generate tourist trade, though, the true interest lies in the almost untouched gems in the hutongs. Small Buddhist temples with many believers at prayer, the Mosques holding prayers five times a day, and Christian churches remind visitors of the former missionary traffic through the region in former times. The East Mosque was originally built in 1407 in the style of a Chinese temple, and has many similarities with the destroyed Kaifeng synagogue.

When the sun sets, the city center quickly becomes one of China's most exotic and lively night markets. Henan dishes, blue flames, and hungry locals, drawn by the smell of lamb skewers and long noodles, offer another reminder of the many centuries of commerce that have gone before, and that continue into the present day.

Kaifeng Toolbox

Getting There

Shanghai-Kaifeng - there are regular express trains making the 13 hour journey to Kaifeng. From Beijing, it's best to change at Zhengzhou (8.5 hours), and then take a local bus from in front of the railway station (45 minutes).

There is no airport in Kaifeng, so air arrivals (from Shangahi and Beijing) will go to Zhengzhou.

Where to Stay

There are no major 5-star hotels in Kaifeng, although there are a few decent 3-star hotels for around Y200. Yuxiang Hotel, on Nantu Lu (near the night market) is very new, and is essentially a 4-star hotel for the price of a 3-star. Prices can be negotiated down by around Y150 if you're planning on staying longer.

General

Tickets to the gardens, parks, and temples such as the Qingming River park and the Dravon Pavilion cost between Y20-30. Tours of the Kaifeng Jewish History Museum can be arranged by Moshe Zhang - call him on 0378-315-5629 (Chinese only). His translator, Alex Liu (0378-398-8062) speaks English.

Contact the author on: editor@cityweekend.com.cn