New-Age Goa
by cityweekend | Posted on Aug 16 2007 | Travel 0 Comments | 0 Bookmarked
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Goa's Portuguese legacy, unpretentious beaches and energetic spirit have much to offer the global nomad.

Goa represents an unconventional sand ‘n' sun destination popular in the 60s and 70s with iconoclastic flower children and rock stars like The Beatles' guitarist George Harrison. It is universally acknowledged as the fountainhead for Goa trance and night-long beach parties; and is seen as a stomping ground for ravers and pleasure seekers world-wide.

Goa's waters are not a Caribbean blue, but rather a clear green with coarse and brown beaches. And its districts are neither well planned nor manicured. And yet, this once sleepy seaside province on India's Malabar Coast has attracted people from far beyond its shores for several centuries. Five hundred years ago Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama landed on Goa's beaches, fell in love with them and initiated a 400-year-long Portuguese tryst with it. As the capital of the Portuguese Indies, Goa flourished with traders from all over the world; its streets lined with spice shops and its mansions over-flowing with riches. Its baroque edifices, ornate churches and white washed villa's were once said to rival those of Lisbon.

After the Indian government gained control of Goa in 1961, it was re-colonized, but this time by a wave of bohemian backpackers and hippies who were attracted by its raw, untouched expanses and christened it the international capital for new-age living.

Everything about Goa has since spontaneously evolved in an eccentric and whimsical manner. The Wednesday flea market at Anjuna is a manifestation of just that; a melting pot of tribal artists, beach bums and vagrant tourists. Started by hippies to earn a living while they called Goa their home, the flea market has metamorphosed into a bustling bazaar. Every corner sees an amateur haggler squabbling for the last rupee on a Tibetan tankha or embroidered tunic.

When not shopping, the ABCs of north Goa is where to be. The beaches of Anjuna, Baga and Calangute are lined with cabana shacks that often get packed as the monsoons make way for the December party season. Pick a shack for the afternoon; lay out a sarong on one of the beach beds and wait for a spirited young Goan speaking no less than five languages to run over for your order. Come nightfall, these shacks transform into open air beach clubs with thumping music, neon lights and bonfires. A mix of Bollywood, reggae and international popular hits alternate into the wee hours of the morning. With energy so contagious, it is very easy to flow from the beach parties at Club Cabana or Paradiso to a techno-electric DJ festival at Bamboo Forest or Disco Valley where the titan sun rising from behind the palm tree rim is a sign only to party on.

This decadence by nightfall is matched by an equally potent spiritual movement. Transcendental meditation centers, holistic healing through yoga and Ayurevedic therapy, have found their way to Goa's shores. Testing the limits of your flexibility with Ashtanga yoga or a health awakening through pranayams at Sri Sri Ravi Shankar's Art of Living Center in Margao are over subscribed by Indians and foreigners alike.

But the Goa experience is incomplete without discovering the splendid reminiscence of Old Goa. What little that remains of this architectural splendour is being carefully preserved as UNESCO world heritage sites. A relaxed bicycle ride through the streets of Old Goa will reveal the exquisite baroque church of Bom Jesus that holds the embalmed body of St. Francis. Three years ago when his body was paraded through the city, 2 million pilgrims from around the world flocked to Goa to witness this historic event; making it the largest ever religious gathering in Asia. Only a short walk away is the Church of St. Cajetan and the ruins of St. Augustine. Church Cajetan is a stunning miniature replica of St. Paul's Cathedral in Rome and St. Augustine stands as a testament to the history and grandeur of a bygone era. Contact the author at:editor@cityweekend.com.cn

The Details:

Getting there:

Take Air India to Mumbai. From Mumbai there are several flights a day to Goa on Jet Airways.

Where to Stay:

South Goa: For those seeking the ultimate in luxury accommodations, try The Leela or the Taj Exotica. For budget travelers, head to the Laguna Anjuna.

North Goa: Both the Fort Aguada and Taj Village offer beautiful rooms.

Where to Eat:

Try Lila's Café by a lazy river in Little Baga. Owned by German Elisabeth Saal, it offers a delectable assortment of freshly baked croissants, Swiss roesti, fruit shakes and omelettes. For local specialities, don't miss the spicy Goan curry and a masala pomfret swallowed with a glass of Goa's local cashew wine feni.

Where to Play:

Paradiso, Club Cabana, Tito's on Baga, Club Congo. Or head to Old Goa to visit St. Francis at the Bom Jesus or capture the beauty of the Church Cajetan.

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