The Taste of the Town
by cityweekend | Posted on Jun 07 2007 | Travel 1 Comments | 0 Bookmarked
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48+ hours of eating and drinking in Beijing and Shanghai. City Weekend’s Readers' Choice Awards help you narrow down the delights to savor in China’s hottest cities.

Through thunderous applause, the clinks of wine glasses and murmurings around mouthfuls of savory canapés, the best and the brightest of Beijing and Shanghai's dining and nightlife scenes stood one by one to accept their awards. At the end of May, each city hosted City Weekend's Readers' Choice Awards 2007, honoring those who work so hard to keep us full and slightly intoxicated. Like every year, not all the winners were surprises. In Beijing, we knew there would be a place on the list for Alameda, a longtime Readers' Choice winner, who maintains consistent quality while continuing to surprise diners with inventive dishes. The Bookworm, a Beijing institution, was a shoe-in for Best Wi-Fi Café. Likewise, Q Bar and Suzie Wong’s always find themselves a favorite among the people for their outstanding cocktails and glitterati scene.

In Shanghai, everyone expected, and voted for, the incomparable Jean-Georges to win Best French Restaurant. The awards wouldn't be complete without an appearance from Shanghai favorites M on the Bund and Moon River Diner, and nobody was surprised when Haiku, with their love-at-first-bite rolls, nabbed the award for Best New Restaurant of 2007. For those who know where to go to see and be seen, Jade on 36 and the Best Nightclub of the Year winner Attica are a must. But if you live in either Beijing or Shanghai, you already know about the best of your city. So, aside from just announcing the winners in both cities, we've created a fun weekend travel itinerary full of culinary delights and gorgeous cocktails from the best of the Readers' Choice award winners for your next outing to that other expat magnet. Shanghai expats, keep reading for the inside scoop on the crème de la crème of Shagnahi's bars and restaurants. Beijingers, scroll down for all you need to know about eating and drinking in China's most cosmopolitan city. Now you'll be an expert on the best of the dining and nightlife scenes in both of China's hottest cities.

Shanghai

The nightlife scene in this cosmopolitan city is quickly gaining international notoriety with beautiful people flocking to the Bund and beyond for classy cocktails. Start your foray into Shanghai’s nightlife scene at People 7, a bar reminiscent of a warehouse turned art studio. Offering an open, yet cozy scene, People 7 is a uniquely romantic lounge atmosphere not to be replicated elsewhere—perfect for intimate encounters and falling in love with Shanghai nightlife. To add a little more swing to your night, continue on to Cotton Club. The dark, smoky interior and mosaic-like stained glass stage backdrop announce this venue as the Church of Jazz. “It’s the bands, the music and the environment,” says manager Ellen Wang, which continues to make Cotton Club the best jazz bar in Shanghai. But don’t stay up too late, tomorrow you start your culinary adventure.

Not long ago in Shanghai, explains Brian Tan, chef-owner at the House of Flour, “as long as you offered okay Western food and had a good location, your restaurant would survive.” Back then in Shanghai, Tan says, it seemed like there was no need for restaurant experience whatsoever, but “today is a totally different arena.” Despite the rabid competition, Tan has mastered this cut-throat scene. Our two day feeding extravaganza starts at Tan’s welcoming cafe in Pudong with a morning coffee and indulgent blueberry cheesecake slice (a top favorite, incorporating whole frozen berries), or house-baked pastry. Tan’s authentic curry chicken masala is another much-loved offering.

Nowadays, as Tan alludes, thanks to pioneers like Michelle Garnaut of M on the Bund, a culinary tour of Shanghai is ample and rewarding. Stretch out for Saturday brunch on the balcony at M, admiring the elegant silver service and sunny Mediterranean flavors, along with the panoramic Huangpu views. The airy and tropical Pavlova here is a classic that will pop up in your happiest daydreams. A lunch alternative for Thai food fans is Simply Thai, a warmly lit and inviting eatery with an outdoor tented seating area. You’ll feel rejuvenated with their robust foreign wine selection, golden fish cakes and entrees of curries, lemongrass-laced pork and elegant prawns.

For dinner, splurge on a French feast, luxuriating in the manna of either Paul Pairet’s intoxicating creativity at Jade on 36 or the vivid essences and divine combinations conjured by Eric Johnson at Jean-Georges. These two altars to gastronomy both boast interiors glorious enough to match the menus.

The day may be gone, but the weekend is just getting started. Grab some friends, dress to kill and set out for Glamour Bar. Pink-hued and orchid-laden with spectacular views, this is the place where your glamorous style will match the interior—a fabulous start to a night on the Bund.

If your wallet is starting to feel a little light, pop across the street to I Love Shanghai, great for drinking on the dime as each night promises another budget-friendly special. Try an absinthe shot if you’re feeling particularly daring, but save some money for the next stop down the road: Attica.

Voted Best Nightclub of the Year, it’s not unusual to find people dancing till the break of dawn or watching the sunrise from the terrace at 5 a.m. “Attica is a lifestyle,” says manager David Wong, “it’s a concept—everything under one roof.”

If you can manage to crawl out of bed the next morning, jog to Element Fresh and slurp what may be the choicest smoothie concoction ever: peanut butter, banana and chocolate—need we say more? If you’re brave, order a “Big American” (a mountain of eggs, meat, French toast and more), while the wimpy are allowed to share, or even get a salad like the bleu apple with walnuts and bacon (in which case don’t miss the miso yogurt dressing, good enough to bathe in). For a late Sunday brunch, get in line for a table with some of the most rarified palates in town. Crystal Jade is the haunt for top chefs when they’re not in their own kitchens—David Laris, of our editor's favorite splurge Laris, raves over Crystal Jade’s spicy noodles, barbecue pork and chicken feet in black bean sauce, which he calls “the best in town ... the best Cantonese-style dim sum in Shanghai for sure.”

For dinner, stroll to tree-lined Taojiang Lu, for the best new restaurant on the scene, Haiku. Founder Vincent Liu says he launched this Shanghai satellite of Beijing's Hatsune “because Shanghai needs it and I need it. I asked myself, ‘Why should I have to travel all the way to Beijing to get great rolls?’” That’s when Liu started “begging” Hatsune founder Alan Wong to partner with him for a Shanghai venture. “Shanghai is very competitive,” Liu echoes a familiar refrain, “it’s a gateway to international cuisine. There’s so much range to choose from.” Haiku has obviously added an important and popular choice to the foodie spectrum though. The top menu item is the “Moto-Roll-Ah” (“Everyone thinks this name is so cool,” says Liu) with its brilliant ensemble of spicy tuna, snow crab, maguro and avocado. If you’ve already downed this multiple times, you might want to stop in for a brand new roll, sort of a Rolls Royce of rolls if we may say, the “Alex Foie”: foie gras, tempura shrimp, scorched eel, avocado and sesame seeds.

Now we wouldn’t want to end the night early, so take a brief walk over to the gorgeous manse and emerald lawns of Paulaner Brauhaus for a tasty bubbly house-brewed beer. And though you may be about to pop from reckless gluttony, one can always count on Paulaner’s juicy and massive sausage platter to tide you over.

If you have one more go in you before the weekend fades away, enjoy a quiet Sunday evening at Jade on 36 at the Pudong Shangri-La where you’ll find drinks that truly are to die for. Sip on a lemongrass coconut daquiri while savoring a rare view of the Bund from the other side of the river. “Guests come in for the view,” says assistant manager Newman Hu, “and then [are sold] on the drinks.”

While it may be back to work on Monday, your love affair with the Shanghai dining and nightlife scene isn’t over. There’s always your next trip.

Full Shanghai nightlife awards listed here.

Full Shanghai dining awards listed here.

Beijing

In a city quickly amassing endless culinary choices, even locals have a hard time keeping up, and chances are, if you are not in the know, then choosing a place to eat in Beijing can seem quite daunting.

On a Friday night there is no better place to go than Beijing's tried and true, award-winning restaurant Alameda, a contemporary Brazilian eatery whose chic design and fresh ingredients make it the perfect place to check the week's worries at the door and relax. The set menu changes according to what's fresh, but classics like filet minion and almond pave tend to stick around, and are definitely worth a taste!

After dinner, head to Beijing's premier music venue, Starlive, for a show. PR Manager Feng Yonghua says that "we wanted to create a place to enjoy music" and in the last year, they’ve accomplished just that, attracting performers from all countries and walks of life.

The best place for a late night sensory overload is Beijing's most seductive bar, Suzie Wong’s. Self-described as a mix of 1940's Shanghai decadence and New York’s swing culture in the ‘20s, its Ming-style beds, lush red drapes and flowing champagne make this the place to lose yourself. After a night of music and glamour, the tired can find respite, as well as a triple stack of blueberry pancakes, at Grandma's Kitchen. The country-themed restaurant makes you feel right at home, so have a cup of coffee and relax before heading back out on the streets.

One must-eat lunch spot is favorite newcomer W Wine and Dine. Owner and chef Geoffrey Weckx is a perfectionist and goes through a great deal of trouble to source, and even grow, the best ingredients for dishes such as the chilled gazpacho with Alaska king crab and the grilled tenderloin beef tartar. Served against a minimalist decor, the food here speaks for itself, and trust us, you'll want to listen to every bite.

As night dawns, there is no better place to wind down than Le Café Igosso. Elegant and cozy, it's easy to slip into the dark wood paneling and smooth jazz while sipping a dirty martini as you wait for your crisp, slightly spicy arugula pizza.

Now that you've seen so much of the city, you’re ready for Lan. This vast Philippe Starck designed restaurant and bar can only be described as indescribable. Make sure you have a signature Lan martini or dragonfruit margarita in hand before checking out every opulent nook and novel cranny, and the beautiful members of the gliterati you might find hiding within. There's lots, so it could take all night. After a night of glamour and glitz, no simple breakfast will do, so head over to the St. Regis Garden Café for their Sunday champagne brunch. With tender crepes, sparkling champagne and everything in between, it doesn't get any better than this.

As everyone knows, there's always room for dessert, and while it may seem decadent, the only regret you'll have is if you miss out on Comptoirs de France. Sit back and sink your teeth into the chocolate tartlet, or for the calorie conscious, a scoop of fresh lemon sorbet.

After having more than your fill of treats, allow yourself a break at the Zen-like dining experience that is People 8. As your eyes grow accustomed to the dark setting, your senses heighten and you'll be able to take in every last breath-taking bite of their fusion fare, such as the Vietnam-style Peking duck rolls, grilled codfish with mono miso and the spicy chicken in a stone pot.

After dinner, head over to the old Bell and Drum towers, where, tucked away in the hutongs, you will find the perfect place to wind down at the end of the night: Bed. When asked what makes this Beijing favorite so special, owner Cho says that it's the laid-back attitude and the uniqueness of its style. Much like the city, Bed Bar's walls have seen a lot of history, which were preserved by adding Qing, colonial and industrial touches throughout. So lay back on a cool, concrete kang with an even cooler mojito in hand, nibbling on the delicious goat cheese stuffed shrimp, as you try to digest all that you've seen and eaten this weekend.

Full Beijing nightlife awards listed here.

Full Beijing dining awards listed here.

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