Under a bright sun that rains down 30 degree rays of warmth, a small jet engine boat cuts through calm, cerulean waters, creating the only interruptions in the smooth, glass-like surface for miles around. Far to the south are the long stretches of flat, pristine white beaches, lined with luxury resorts that make Penang Island one of Asia's most popular tropical getaways. For those not content to merely lounge poolside with margaritas, sail toward the lesser known secluded northern shore that is dominated by undulating hills exploding with every imaginable shade of green.

The rolling, verdant terrain on the northwest tip of the island is part of the Penang National Park that stretches for 1,265 hectares. The medley of flora and fauna create a sweet, almost spicy fragrance that overpowers the saltiness of the ocean breeze close to shore. With over 1,000 species of trees, nearly 200 types of birds, 14 kinds of reptiles and 28 groups of mammals, the park is a haven for Penang's natural heritage and one of Malaysia's best kept secrets. A multitude of hiking trails that lead through the shadowy forest canopy make it a paradise for eco-tourists.

The boat docks at Teluk Duyung, a small bay protected by the Maka Head's Cape. Behind a narrow beach lays a long stretch of forest cultivated with coconuts and durians. Looking up into the distance, one can see a white tower jutting out from an enclave of greenery. The lighthouse, which was built in 1883 and still guides boats into the Penang harbor, provides a panoramic view of the entire island.

The two to three hour hike to the lighthouse from the beachfront takes trekkers through a maze of lush foliage. Leafy palms, wispy protrusions of Casuarina trees and fully grown tropical timbers create a layered canopy. Sunshine peaks through the leaves to form a lacy artwork of light upon ferns that spread abundantly over the ground. Pitcher plants, with their mouths open seductively to entice insect prey, decorate the green and brown canvas with splashes of orange and red.

Keeping eyes peeled, visitors will soon realize they are being observed, and maybe even followed, by an entourage of mischievous monkeys. The curious Dusky Leaf Monkeys and the playful Long-tailed Macaques are the kings of the jungle here—the area's nickname, Monkey Beach, is apt. The Dusky Leaf Monkeys, recognizable by white patches around the eyes that make them look bespectacled, tend to be more hesitant, choosing to watch from tree branches above while the bolder Macaques scamper as close as a foot or two away from hikers, tilting their heads beguilingly, hoping to be fed scraps (park rangers strongly recommend against feeding animals).

A 40 minute walk from Teluk Duyung is Kerachut Beach. The area boasts a rare meromictic lake, a geographic phenomenon. For only a few months a year, during spring tides, the sea enters a one square kilometer inlet and saltwater fills the lake. The saltwater meets freshwater that flows in from a few mountain streams, but the two do not fully mix. Instead, the salt water (being denser) occupies the lower layer and the freshwater layers the upper part of the lake. Fishing enthusiasts will find the unique experience of being able to simultaneously catch fresh and saltwater fish.

Later this year, the Penang National Park will open a north entrance, providing easier access to a natural canal that is flanked on both sides by mangrove trees that make their home along the muddy banks. The mangroves' jade leaves reflect upon the water, creating a pastel emerald hue. This spot where land, salt water and fresh water meet is home to a plethora of birds, including rare orange beaked Kingfishers and white herrings who perch atop reeds. For travelers who truly want a return to nature, Penang National Park offers a peaceful retreat.

TRAVEL TIPS

How to get there: From Georgetown, use the northern coastal road passing through Tanjung Tokong, Tanjung Bungah at Batu Fringghi and Teluk Bahang town. You can start the entire major Penang National Park trail system from Teluk Bahang.

Where to Stay: Most of the beaches have campsites, Tel: 604-881-3530.

If you want the lap of luxury, stay at the beautiful beachfront Shangri-la Rasa Sayang Resort (pictured right) in Georgetown, a 35 minute drive from the park. Even in this 5-star resort, eco-awareness is present. Beautiful 100-year-old Rain Trees are preserved on the campus of the resort, proving that development and conservation can work hand-in-hand. The five-star resort's facilities include club lounge facilities, spas, a health club and a par 3 executive golf course. Tel: 604-888-8888 or check: shangri-la.com/penang/rasasayang/en/index.aspx

Where to Eat: Nasi Kandar is very popular in Penang. Operated by the Mamak (Indian-Muslim), Nasi Kandar stalls or restaurants serve meals of steamed rice with a variety of curries and fried food.

Where to Play: Teluk Duyung/Monkey Beach in the park also serves as an ideal place for water sports. For a cultural experience, try the Living Heritage Traditional Trades Trail. The two hour walk takes you to visit artisans, from weavers to fortune tellers.