Haidian | Meilucun
On blistery nights when the wind’s picked up, get off the street and take a seat at Meilucun for the ultimate Beijing comfort food, pumpkin (煨南瓜, ¥18). What’s so special about chunks of pumpkin? Nothing, until the subtly sweet flavor and soothing texture of these tender morsels makes you wonder if pumpkin might just be the world’s most underrated vegetable. The pumpkin pieces come in a porcelain pot, braised to near structural collapse so that the final consistency is, well, nearly no consistency. But this ain’t no mashed potatoes; it’s a whole lot better. And was there something in that braising liquid? Because we’re already jonesing for another visit.
Find it: 11 Suzhou Jie 苏州街11号. Tel: 6253-8883

Xicheng | Beijing Renda Jiulou
The Seafood Braised in Cushaw (金汤海鲜南瓜盅, ¥33) is, well, a bit ugly. The whole pumpkin, steamed until done, is a shriveled miniature of its former gloriously golden self. But appearance belies taste and the steaming process works well to tenderize the flesh. A thick pumpkin soup with bits of shrimp and dried scallops fill its hollow center. This style leaves out the soul-satisfying, earthy deliciousness that characterizes pumpkin dishes at their best. Still, the slivers of pumpkin tender and saturated in the savory soup are pleasant if not drool-worthy.
Find it: A6 Twenty-Seven Juchang Lu, off of Yuetan Nanjie 月坛南街二七剧场路甲6号 6802-2636

CBD/Guomao | LAN Club Restaurant With the classy decor of the LAN Club, it’s no wonder their pumpkin dish is just as chic sophisticate. The “Royal Navy Seafood and Pumpkin Soup” (¥78) is no bumpkin fare. The soup is served inside the hollowed-out gourd and is a thick swirl of seafood bits and vegetables. We found the combination of sweet and savory, the pumpkin with the prawns and crab meat, quite commendable. However, be sure to ask the kitchen to cook the pumpkin all the way through. We were disappointed that this time, our pumpkin flesh wasn’t tender enough to be scraped out and enjoyed to the last meaty morsel.
Find it: 4/F Twin Tower, B12 Jianguomen Waidajie. 建国门外大街B12双子座大厦4层. Tel: 5109-6012/13