Mushroom Mavens
From No Name to South Silk Road, Beijing is full of hip, colorful Yunnan restaurants. Middle 8th, however, is one of the classiest. The stark white walls punctuated with framed textiles, the elegant lighting and impeccable service all suggest a restaurant costing far more than Middle 8th. Entrees start at just ￥28, such as the Fried Mushrooms with Black Pepper Sauce, a delectable dish full of fungi so flavorful and juicy we first mistook them for stewed pork. Even the most extravagant dishes, such as Fried Morels with Wild Herbs (￥118), hardly break the bank. We especially recommend the Bass with Lemon Chicken Soup (￥68), a baked fish marinated in a tangy citrus sauce, and the Fried Boletus Edulis (porcini) with Shrimps (￥42). Like all Yunnan restaurants, Middle 8th also offers a range of insects for dauntless diners. If you have the guts, try the Bamboo Worm and Yunnan Pea Shoots (￥28).

Blake Stone-Banks

Contact: Sanlitun Zhongjie Zhongba Lou, 中八楼, 三里屯中街, 6402-7087