Day in the Life: The Long Marcher
Last year Chris Rehage decided he’d had enough of sedentary life in China, so he decided to go back to Germany—by foot.
Hotel in Linfen, 250 km north of Xi’an
8:00 a.m. Wake up to alarm clock. Open eyes, extend arm from sleeping bag, touch radiator. Feel the cold, close eyes again.
9:06 Get up. Turn on computer and write up yesterday's post.
10:04 Write "25, 7" on the back of my left hand. If I walk 25.7 kilometers today, then that’ll be 1,000 since I left Beijing.
10:10 Upload post, put on clothes, brush teeth.
10:24 Check comments on post. Shut down computer. Put on gaiters and the rest of my gear.
10:41 Leave room and stop by reception desk.
10:48 Step into the snow. Set up the GPS, ready to leave the "most polluted city in all China,” Linfen.
The Road
10:53 Notice wrong filter on wide angle lens. Curse.
11:17 Take pee break, change filter.
12:11 p.m. Get stopped by a dude in a car, accept invitation for lunch nearby.
Restaurant
12:15 Meet up with the dude in restaurant. His name is Liu Kui. Have a merry lunch with him and a bunch of new friends.
2:02 Take group photographs, shake hands. Leave restaurant, get back on the highway.
The Road
2:25 Get sprayed by a passing coal truck. Briefly examine water damage. Wave arms and fists, scream and curse and rage. I Get stopped by Liu Kui and his friends again. Receive best wishes and printed group pictures. Smile.
3:47 Buy ice tea in a small shop next to the road. Sit down and chat with a woman named Hao Ting and her mother.
4:50 Check the time. Hurriedly say my good-byes and rush out the door.
4:53 Look at some dudes trying to get their car out from a roadside ditch.
6:12 Arrive at my destination by nightfall: Xiangfen.
Xiangfen
6:17 Ask kid for directions to a hotel.
6:20 Ask lady for directions to a hotel.
6:28 Arrive at the best hotel in town. Frown at their rates: RMB130.
6:35 Go to second best hotel in town. RMB126. Frown again.
6:43 Negotiate the price down to RMB120. Fake smile.
6:46 Realize that this is the end of all negotiations. Frown.
6:57 Go to a random small hotel next to the street. See the price: RMB30. Smile. See the cold radiator. Frown.
7:03 Decide to settle down in the cold hotel because the owner seems like a nice guy.
7:08 Move into room, drop backpack and stick, sit down on bed. Lean back and look at ceiling.
7:20 Get up. Ask owner for a decent restaurant. Cross the street with high hopes for good food.
Restaurant
7:27 Order shaoguo, some kind of boiling pot with all kinds of things in it.
7:30 Purchase some fruit juice next door.
7:34 Go back to restaurant. Wash hands. Sit down. Peel garlic.
7:43 Have a good shaoguo with huajuan, a kind of Chinese bread.
8:12 Leave restaurant, go to supermarket for cookies and yogurt.
Hotel
8:20 Arrive back at the room. Take off gaiters, recharge batteries, turn on computer, check emails.
8:41 Start going through today's pictures. Delete some, keep some. Match up with the GPS data.
9:17 Feel unrest in the bowels. Prepare tissue and flashlight.
9:20 Follow hotel owner through the backyard to a loo that can only be described as evil.
9:29 Great success! Evacuate freezing body from evil loo and navigate back to room.
9:35 Update map on homepage, write up today's post.
10:50 Have cookies and soak feet in hot water bowl. Look at my breath evaporating into little white puffs in the cold air.
11:02 Look at my left hand: the "25, 7" is still readable. I’m 1.7 km short of the full 1,000 km today.
11:05 Take off a few clothes. Decide to leave on sweater and beanie (because of the cold). Climb into my sleeping bag.
11:10 Chat with some friends, every now and then going back to the post and fixing some stuff here and there.
12:29 a.m. Turn off computer. Touch radiator again. Feel the cold. Turn off the light. Sleep.
The Verdict
So, the million kuai question: why does a talented photographer give up life at the Beijing Film Academy and decide to walk 15,000 kilometers to Germany? According to Chris: “I am walking because, at some point, I want to get tired and weary, make myself learn appreciation for my home, so at some point I can settle down and have a nice little family. It's feeding the wolf, until it doesn't know that certain hunger anymore. That ‘I-have-to-go-to-the-weirdest-place-possible’ hunger. I'm really just a dude walking around beautiful landscapes getting to meet beautiful people. And I'm loving it.” Follow his progress at www.thelongestway.com.


