The Elephant Pack
Don't be confused by the checkered tablecloths, green-upholstered booths or photographs of Western celebrities lining the walls. This might be Siberia’s version of TGI Friday's, but as Beijing's fourth Elephant, expect reliable Russian meat n' potatoes. We began with a bowl of Borscht (￥25), not your grandma's thick, blended variety, but satisfying nonetheless. "Shouba" Style Herring Salad (￥30), a mayo-laden beet and cabbage slaw, was light on fish, but peppery Pork-stuffed Cabbage (￥40) and buttery Chicken Kiev (￥40) both compensated with hearty portions. Rather than douse the Pancakes with Red Caviar (￥48) in sour cream to offset the brine, conserve the cream for "Latkes" Potato Pancakes (￥28), a throw-back to Chanukahs past. Top it all off with a glass of Gold Anto vodka (￥10), Stoli (￥20), or imported draft (￥30) to carry you through the Siberian night.

Manuela Zoninsein

Contact: Ritan Shangjie, Courtyard 39, Shenlujie, 神路街39号院日坛上街, 8561-4013