The Tao of Eating
Combining a bit of olive oil, a slice of mushroom patty, a sliver of arugula and a piece of shrimp carpaccio, the resulting spoonful melted in our mouths. This was the defining moment of our dinner at Tao; it was also characteristic of the way in which different elements either melded fantastically or failed to make a point in this elegantly designed new eatery. While our starter, the carpaccio, was delightful, the grilled snapper that came afterwards seemed a letdown, with the green beans doing nothing for the flavors of the fish, which was well-prepared, but not memorable. For dessert, the made-in-house yogurt tasted like the varieties found in ceramic jars at street snack shops, but the appearance of diced mango and pine nuts among the sweet creaminess was a delicious surprise. The set menu (¥168/2 courses and ¥188/3 courses for dinner) changes weekly. Perhaps change will bring consistency.

Larissa Zhou

Contact: South end of Lucky Street, West of the 21st Century Hotel, 好运街南边, 二十一世际酒店南边, 5867-02096401-2529