The Vine Leaf is being heralded as Beijing’s first gastropub, but while we get the “gastro” part, we’re not sure this cozy hutong venue qualifies as a “pub.” There were only five bottled beers available the night we visited, and not much of a pub atmosphere. But as a restaurant, The Vine Leaf is very nice. It’s owned by the same people behind the Vineyard Café, so the same pizzas, burgers and brunch options are all available, as well as some more “pub”-ish additions. The fish & chips (¥72) is expensive, but the portion is huge. The mushy peas on the side are delicious, as are the potato wedges, but instead of the traditional, crunchy beer batter, the fish is covered in a light, crisp batter that tastes more like tempura than British pub fare. It’s not bad, but Village Café’s fish & chips are better. The soups are delicious, and very nicely presented with crispy baguette. The watercress and blue cheese soup (¥40) tastes healthy and peppery, and the cheese adds a great salty, savory flavor. The chorizo and chickpea soup (¥45) has a hearty broth, with chunky vegetables and excellent spicy chorizo sausage. The venue, which looks a lot like a miniature version of The Vineyard, is surprisingly warm and cozy given that it’s in a hutong and has many large windows. Service is good, and food is served promptly.

Our rating: 3.5/5 stars

DETAILS

What: The Vine Leaf

Where: 9 Jianchang Hutong, 箭厂胡同9号

Tel: 6407-6308

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