A Meat-free Tour of the City by Our Skeptical Food Columnist
by tingy13 | Posted on Jun 08 2011 | The Dish 0 Comments | 0 Bookmarked
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I have always been a die-hard carnivore, and therefore very skeptical about vegetarianism. But as a foodie who’s willing to eat anything, I decided to put my annoyance aside and go on an exploration of the city’s vegetarian “food,” just in time to lose some weight before I left Beijing on vacation.

I was shocked to see how packed Tianchu Miaoxiang was during lunch hour and struck by paranoia that vegetarianism really is taking over the world. The vegetable dishes were all light and airy yet tasty, especially the mushroom with cumin and peppers (¥32). The pseudo-shuizhuyu (¥48/half, ¥68 whole), mixed with cabbage, sprouts and mushrooms, is also appetizing, with a drop of fish flavor and half the amount of oil normally found in the dish. But the texture was just spongy soy protein, which validated my assumption that though my taste buds could be satisfied, eating vegetarian “meat” just can’t replicate the experience of eating the real thing.

Going to Loving Mom’s Vegan was an even bigger step, but I was pleasantly surprised. Partner Yaxin Wang advocates for a healthy vegan lifestyle. She made me aware that according to a 2006 U.N. report, raising livestock produces 18 percent more greenhouse gas emissions than transportation does. This fact left me petrified as I started my meal, but one dish caught my taste buds’ attention: the savory kebabs (¥28). These skewers are made out of soy but do make for a convincing imitation of yangrou chuan’r, deliciously spiced and sprinkled with herbs. The consistency has a chewy texture but without the fat, which left me full and actually satisfied. The restaurant is working on adding Western items to the menu, including burgers and cakes, which I’m now eager to try.

Even non-vegetarian restaurants are catching the veggie drift. The Kempinski Hotel is green conscious, which they’ve been showcasing with their menus. “At Paulaner Brauhaus, we’ve had vegetarian promotions running since March. It’s been very successful and we’ve received great appreciation from our guests,” says Johannes Mayr, the hotel’s F&B director. “We had a summer salad promotion last year, which we will definitely repeat.”

My vegetarian adventures have opened me up to alternative eating habits, and I’ve even discovered a few dishes that I’d eat again. Delicious flavor does exist in the veggie world, but I still think that eating meat is a more pleasurable and familiar indulgence that just can’t be substituted for tofu. To me, a world without cheese and bacon is not worth living in, so I won’t be converting anytime soon.

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