The recipe for success in an ever changing dining landscape

It’s happened to everyone. You make plans to go to your favorite eatery, only to find that it closed. In a city where restaurants open and close faster than you can say huanying guanglin, what does it take to pass the test of time?

Mexican Wave (6506-3961) at Jianguomen claims to be the first and oldest foreign-owned restaurant in Beijing. Started by Greg Elliot and Judy Potter more than 20 years ago, this place has survived changes. The winning formula for their longevity might be Greg’s incredible memory for names and faces or Judy’s vibrant personality.

One of Beijing’s first African restaurants, Pili Pili (8448-4332) at Xingbalu, was started four years ago by Lu Chunming. The chief executive of Beijing Holley-Cotec Pharmaceuticals wanted to share African culture with his fellow Chinese after spending years on the continent for anti-malaria medicine. Rustic décor and authentic African flavors like crocodile salads have certainly contributed to his restaurant’s success.

Finally, I consulted the lao Beijingren at Yue Bin, 6524-5322 the first privately owned restaurant post-Mao, located opposite NAMOC. Mr. Guo and Mrs. Liu first opened the restaurant in May 1980 with support from the government. “The difficulty was not setting up business, but getting enough food supplies during the rationing,” said Guo, an elderly man in his 70’s who still personally prepares the restaurant’s dishes. When asked about on the dining scene, he gets philosophical. “Every business, like life, has its ups and downs. When one restaurant closes, another opens.” He adds cheerfully, “Now, with the freedom of choice to buy and eat whatever you want, dining in Beijing is wonderful.”

Sharing qualities of ambiance, good food and friendly service, these three firsts have persevered through the endless turn-over in Beijing’s restaurant scene and maintained a steady clientele among the city’s transitional and fickle diners. Thinking about what Guo said, I wonder, how much of that success has to do with good fengshui and maybe destiny?

Emma Starks