A fresh batch of restaurants arrives from Shanghai
After attaining success in two Shanghai outposts, wine bar and cafe Enoteca owners Youngju Lee and Pierre Monie have set their sights on an outlet at The Place in Beijing's CBD. They're convinced demand exists in our city for "a neighborhood bar where one can go [for] a glass of wine, some fine foods, in a comfortable setting."

This opinion is characteristic of the new wave of Shanghai restaurateurs who recently decamped northward, a growing list that includes newly-opened Wagas (in Xidan) and promises three Element Fresh and two Blue Frog jump-offs as well (both first due to open in June in the new Sanlitun project). While high end places are migrating Capital-wise, what we're starting to see from Shanghai is an influx of homey and approachable locales. "It will be warm and inviting," says Blue Frog founder Bob Boyce. "The goal is a place where people can let their hair down."

These new spots won't merely provide an outlet for lazing and boozing-they'll serve refined food in a sophisticated atmosphere. Enoteca is known for a precise, bistro-like approach: Tapas, cheese plates and sandwiches mean a crispy Croque Monsier or goat cheese varietals will never be far. Element Fresh prioritizes locally-sourced ingredients, combined according to a menu of salads, sandwiches, wraps and entrees. Both restaurants also have a proven track record in reliable service.

All of which portends comfortable ambiance, fine food and quality service-without exorbitant price tags. With per-person bills averaging between ￥30 and ￥100 (sans spirits, of course), we can avoid checking-account indigestion.

Perhaps this is what Beijing is missing. Fine food in this city often means shelling out fat stacks of cash. The experience is often stuffy and pretentious; even then, service can be spotty. Seeking a semi-casual business lunch? No matter: reservations are necessary, 3-courses are the norm-and expect to spend up to two hours.

Thankfully, the Shanghai migration means that next time you're aiming for quick, tasty lunch eats, neither Beijing xiao chi nor Shanghainese xiao long bao will have to suffice.

Manuela Zoninsein