Before I moved to Beijing, Xinjiang food was an absolute enigma to me. Since coming here almost three years ago, though, I’ve enjoyed lots of China’s western cuisine. Recently, I went to food writer Jen Lin-Liu’s talk at the Capital M Literary Festival on Foods of the Silk Road, a route I have always dreamed of traveling. Jen’s stop in Xinjiang, the Uighur-populated province, offered plenty of delicious foodie finds. “The food has an interesting Chinese influence yet remains such a distinct cuisine,” she explained. “They love fat, rice and bread.” Indeed, who doesn’t?
Jen’s favorite street food snack is gush gerde, a lamb bagel cooked in a special tandoor oven. This has yet to be introduced in Beijing, but you can opt for what I consider to be Uighur pizza—braised mutton, mixed with green and red peppers in a savory brown sauce atop a soft naan bread. The best can be had for ¥58 at my favorite Xinjiang restaurant, Camel Lace located in Gulou. Hurry over soon, because this restaurant is slated to be torn down with the rest of its surrounding neighborhood. I have no doubt that whatever establishment takes its place will never fill my stomach in the same way.
Most Xinjiang restaurants in Beijing include a number of staple dishes, and of these, there are three without which no Xinjiang meal is really complete. All of these can be found at expat staple Crescent Moon. First is my favorite starch: ding-ding mian (¥15), macaroni noodles mixed with peppers and onions in a tomato paste. It’s light, flavorful, simple and savory. Next is the homemade yogurt (¥10), which is creamy, delicious and sweet, with a hint of sourness. And of course, lamb chuan’r (¥6/串) is the absolute requisite. I don’t even mind the fat on these spice- and herb-topped kebabs, as its juices tenderize the meat to a gentle texture.
But you don’t even have to visit a restaurant for a taste of Xinjiang in Beijing—Xinjiang qiegao, that ubiquitous fruit and nut cake, is sold off the back of bike carts all over the city. The qiegao looks like what Alice in Wonderland would have had at her tea party if she ever ventured to Xinjiang. It’s a bit tough and quite chewy, with a sweet taste of honey and granola.
After getting a taste of Xinjiang food in Beijing and hearing more about it from a foodie who’s visited the province, I’m eager to experience this cuisine’s authenticity at its fullest, and inspired to travel the Silk Road myself sooner rather than later.
Other Posts by This Writer
A Tour of Beijing’s Spanish Cured Meats
By tingy13
I discovered my love for cured, aged meats while living in Europe in 2007. During ...By tingy13
Koushuiji literally translates as "mouth watering chicken," and it's easy to see how the Sichuan ...Putting African Cuisine onto Beijing's Culinary Map
By tingy13
There’s one part of the world that’s never made it onto my culinary map: Africa. ...Ssam’s Bulgogi Reinterprets a Korean Classic
By tingy13
While Ssam’s location in the basement of Sanlitun SOHO puts it under the radar, the ...Book Review: Family and Food Collide in a Unique Cookbook
By tingy13
Overseas Asians who have discovered the depths of family roots going back to the motherland ...Bring the Wonderful World of Chinese Mushrooms Into Your Kitchen
By tingy13
Living in Asia exposes us to different types of produce difficult to find outside of ...Cuisine Cuisine: Choice Cantonese
By tingy13
One of the city’s fanciest dim sum dining destinations, Cuisine Cuisine focuses on seasonal ingredients, ...Your Neighborhood Convenience Store Has Asia’s Best (and Weirdest) Snacks
By tingy13
Cold days are coming to an end, so I’m sure everyone is excited to get ...By tingy13
Goat cheese is awesome by itself. But we're obsessed about the way they prepare it ...The Great Leap Brewery Chili Cook-off Results + Winning Recipe
By tingy13
The Great Leap Brewery in conjunction with See Dice Go Productions and sponsored by City ...A Tour of Beijing's Tastiest Chinese-style Frog Dishes
By tingy13
Frogs seem weird to eat, but these amphibians are considered delicacies from France to South ...Patara’s Steamed Sea Bass Offers Light, Tropical Tastes
By tingy13
Thai fine dining restaurant Patara is usually empty, but the fact that it’s often visited ...Why It's So Difficult for Successful Shanghai F&B Businesses to Move to Beijing
By tingy13
Many Shanghai-based F&B businesses venture to China’s capital anticipating expansion but have difficulty recreating their ...Embracing the Wonderful Powers of Monosodium Glutamate
By tingy13
There is one Asian ingredient that has been controversial for decades: the infamous white crystallized ...By tingy13
The Suan Tang Yu (sour fish soup), a famous dish from Guizhou province made from ...Syringa: Fresh and Fiery Sichuan
By tingy13
This contemporary Sichuan restaurant is located right by Nobu, and with similar tastes to South ...Beijing’s Provincial Specialty Shops: Getting Authentic Chinese Flavors
By tingy13
Before coming to China I only knew of two types of Chinese cuisine: Hakka, and ...Get Beyond Dumplings and Discover Other Traditional Spring Festival Foods
By tingy13
Last year for Chinese New Year, I viewed the fireworks from Atmosphere, on the 80th ...Best Tandoori Chicken in Beijing
By tingy13
Grilled chicken with a spicy, satisfying kick. That's pretty much why we (everyone?) love tandoori ...Huazai Chuan’r Bar: Homestyle Chinese
By tingy13
This 24-hour kebab and Chinese staple eatery is completely underwhelming in every way, and the ...
Crescent Moon! Unfortunately, I've seen too many instances where vendors selling fruit and nut cake harass customers and/or try and overcharge people to even want to buy from them anymore.