Ruins of Empire

Perched on the frontier between Mongolia and the Chinese heartland, Datong is surrounded by half-forgotten remnants of the Great Wall.

An hour’s drive north of the city are the ruins of Hongcibao (宏赐堡), a castle guarding an ancient pass. The dilapidated fort is worth clambering around, but the real attraction is the wall behind it which winds up a steep ravine in crumbling grandeur.

A rigorous climb along the ramparts leads to a plateau. The wall stretches across it and into the distance like an ancient road in sea of green and brown. Towers on either side watch over it. It’s a scene of complete silence, other than a lone grouse startled on the long grass by your approach.

The plateau’s ridge affords views of rugged hills rolling to the horizon, crowned by watchtowers silhouetted against the cloud-streaked blue sky. One gets a sense of standing on the edge of the world. Take a moment to commune with generations of soldiers who eked it out in this wild and lonely place.

Ten kilometers down the road is the garrison town of Deshengbao (得胜堡), a walled community that’s the picture of rural north China. Wander its medieval streets and peer into stone-walled compounds. Sheep and donkeys press up against their pens at a visitor’s approach.

Follow paths threading through fields of corn and sorghum to reach the walls. Climb them for a panorama of the surrounding countryside and tower-studded hills. At the town’s northern end stands an unrestored Ming-era gate. In times of peace Mongol traders brought horses here to be exchanged for the bounty of China.

Hongcibao and Deshengbao can be done together as a daytrip from Datong. Stay at the Hongqi Dafandian.

John Lee

DETAILS

What: Hongqi Dafandian
Where: 11 Zhanqianjie, Datong
How much: ￥298
Contact: (352) 536-6111