Take it easy in enchanting Luang Prabang.

The outboard engine spluttered noisily as the cigar-shaped wooden canoe chugged across the swirling, chocolate water, disturbing a couple of egrets stalking the shallows. My seemingly never-ending waterborne journey was about to reach its conclusion, as I caught tantalizing glimpses of ornate golden pagodas through the dense foliage. This was Luang Prabang, southeast Asian Shangri-la and former royal capital of what is now called the Lao People's Democratic Republic.

Rich with history, Luang Prabang sits at the confluence of the mighty Mekong and the lesser Nam Khan rivers. It was here on this jungle-enclosed peninsula, in 1353, that King Fa Ngum founded Lan Xang, or "the empire of a million elephants." When Fa Ngum later took a Cambodian princess as his wife, the Khmer court gave the king a sacred golden Buddha called Pra Bang. Fa Ngum made Buddhism the state religion, Pra Bang became the protector of the Lao kingdom and Luang Prabang became the cradle of Laotian civilization for the next 200 years.

Motoring slowly toward a dilapidated wooden jetty, my trusty vessel passed serried ranks of traditional Lao houses, standing high on teak pilings as they crept down to the river's edge. Naked children stood unself-consciously on the bank, waving happily at the newest arrivals, while parents nonchalantly hung up washing or washed vegetables in the muddy, lapping waters.

Grabbing my rucksack I leapt onto the jetty, overjoyed to be on terra firma after weeks on the river. I headed for the market square, surprisingly bustling considering Luang Prabang's diminutive population of just 16,000. Sweating profusely and in serious need of refreshment I hailed a saamlor, the Lao version of a motorized pedicab, to expedite arrival at the Phousi Guest House.

My saamlor turned out to be a battered Honda 200 with converted sidecar, driven by a mahogany-skinned Mr. Miyagi. He flashed a toothy grin, wished me a hearty "sabai dee" and I climbed aboard. Amid a belching cloud of smoke, the saamlor lurched to a halt and refused to start after five hundred meters. All the backpackers I'd been eyeing smugly from the comfort of my sidecar filed past, as Mr. Miyagi disappeared with a plastic bottle, presumably to find gas or take a leak.

Half an hour and a sustained push later, the refueled Honda careened through a wrought iron gate, past an al fresco cafe and screeched to a halt outside the Phousi Guest House. A century-old villa that served as the French secretariat during colonial times, the Phousi was unexpectedly chic, and, as I passed a dapper French family daintily nibbling baguettes, I realized it was high time for a shave and a clean pair of shorts.

Luang Prabang is more compact, more sophisticated and more attractive than Vientiane°™an ever-so-slightly kitsch but nevertheless charming relic of l'Indochine Francaise. Unsurprisingly, the French adored Luang Prabang, so poised on its peninsula, so elegant with its pagoda roofs sweeping down like golden wings. They built villas and cafes to admire the scenery-the same ones where tourists sit today, drinking ice cold Beer Lao and watching monks glide gracefully past in their saffron robes.

The setting sun imparted golden hues to the sluggish waters of the Mekong as I sunk into Luang Prabang's cafe culture. It's not difficult to unwind in Laos-indeed, life everywhere else seems positively hectic in comparison. As I tore lumps out of a fresh pate baguette, took a few drags on a communal cigarette and drained my third Beer Lao, I began to appreciate why so many backpackers fall in love with this carefree oasis in the jungle.

After a couple of hours watching darkness descend over the Mekong, I headed to Luang Prabang's renowned night market. Every evening, a sidestreet adjoining the Royal Palace closes to traffic, as traders set out a vast array of stalls selling everything from hand made parasols to traditional snacks. Wandering through the crowd, the mouthwatering aroma of garlic, chilies and sesame oil told me it was time to sample authentic northern Lao cooking.

Luang Prabang has unique cuisine, and it's well worth trying the city's specialities, even if they sound pretty strange. One of the local favorites is jaew bawng, a pungent sauce made with chilies and desiccated buffalo skin. On the recommendation of an extremely attractive Lao girl, I opted for some khai pen, which turned out to be fried river moss, served with sesame seeds and a large dollop of jaew bawng. Washed down with more Beer Lao this concoction proved surprisingly tasty. I finished things off with sweet sticky rice wrapped in a banana leaf.

Luang Prabang rewards early risers. The next day I crawled out of bed at sunrise and wandered out onto the street to behold an amazing spectacle. Scores of monks streamed out of nearby monasteries, making their way barefoot through the streets, bearing gold-topped wooden alms bowls. As they passed by, locals gave each one a spoonful of sticky rice, presumably earning themselves spiritual brownie points. Within an hour the monks had completed their communal breakfast. Tourists still sleeping off the Beer Lao from the night before remained none the wiser.

Luang Prabang is easily explored on foot. Phou Si, a forested hill in the centre of the peninsula, is the best place to get your bearings and offers breathtaking panoramas. Renowned for royal heritage, the city has over 30 wats, at least 20 maintained since pre-colonial times. The most impressive of these is Xieng Thong, standing above the point where the Mekong and Nam Khan converge, with buildings lavishly decorated in kaleidoscopic mosaics of tiny red, green and blue mirrors on a gilded background.

There are a number of other must-see attractions near by. The impressive waterfalls at Khouang Si are about 90 minutes by saamlor, passing through several charming villages on the way. There are also boat trips to the karst caves at Pak Ou, about 30 kilometers up the Mekong, where the intrepid can wonder at hundreds of Buddha statuettes placed inside by devoted local villagers.

Someone once described Luang Prabang as a place where the volume has deliberately been turned down. I was delighted to find that, despite growing tourist numbers, the city's architecture and tranquility have remained intact, in stark contrast to the noisy neon brashness of other Asian tourist hotspots such as Lijiang and Siem Reap. Long-term China residents will find opening their hotel window to the sound of bird song a particularly divine experience.

Despite boasting UNESCO World Heritage status, the fight to keep the pressures of tourism, development and population growth from ravaging the idylls of Luang Prabang is increasingly difficult. In desperately poor countries such as Cambodia and Laos, tourism brings money and jobs, and it takes a lot of courage and foresight to stand up to cash-rich foreign investors. For the sake of locals and future generations of tourists, let's hope this jewel of the Mekong retains its luster for years to come.

More than Monks

You'll definitely want to hit Wat Xieng Thong, the oldest monastery in town, but there's more than monks to this rustic river town

Spectacular Sunset
Phou Si is the highest point in town. Climb the 328 steps up to the summit and catch a spectacular Southeast Asia sunset.

Cook up a Storm
Take the all-day cooking class at Three Elephants Restaurant which starts with a visit to a local market and ends in a six-course Lao style dinner. Plus, walk away with a cookbook!

Dive in
Bike out to the Khouang Si waterfall 25 km outside of town where you'll find multiple pools perfect for splashing around.

Cave of Buddhas
Charter a boat to Pak Ou where you'll find thousands of Buddhist statues of all shapes and sizes that have been "retired" from active service. If you're still in the river mood, hire a boat a venture up the Nam Ou River.

Party Time
In the middle of April, the Lao people celebrate Pimai, or Lao New Year, with four days of feasting and festivity.

Details

Get there: Country Holidays runs Mekong tours starting at £§17,840 (including airfare and accommodation) which include Luang Prabang (http://www.countryholidays.com.cn)
Stay: Villa Santi Resort Hotel created by a Lao princess from a renovated French mansion. Splurge on a villa for US$250. It comes furnished with authentic Lao rosewood furnishings and genuine Lao silk textiles plus features a terrace with a garden view. (http://www.villasantihotel.com)

by Daniel Allen