Mausoleums in Uzbekistan

text and photos by Matthew Niederhauser

Central Asia is a puzzling jigsaw of borders, deserts and inland seas with an equally heterogeneous past. Starting with Alexander the Great in 330 B.C., the region fell victim to a ceaseless tide of invaders including the Huns, Turks, Mongols and, eventually, the Soviets under Stalin. Although each passing civilization left a mark, it was the chain of oasises strung across Uzbekistan's unforgiving Kyzylkum Desert that bequeathed the area its lasting identity as the heart of the fabled Silk Road.

Before hitting the road, spend a few days in Tashkent, Central Asia's most cosmopolitan city. Like the region’s other major metropolises, Tashkent is undergoing rapid development. A mix of Russians, Turks and Persians lounge at sidewalk cafes during the day and dine extraordinarily well in the city's well-heeled restaurants at night. Aesthetes gather nightly at the Alisher Navoi Opera and Ballet Theatre, one of the most well respected concert halls in Central Asia. Designed by the architect of Lenin's tomb, it hosts a wide range of programs, from Uzbek symphony to Russian ballet. On the wilder side, wreak some vodka-fueled havoc in Tashkent's burgeoning club scene. Be prepared to bust elaborate Russian disco moves to gain respect on the dance floor; there is nothing subtle about the city’s club scene, which rivals China’s for pure tacky energy. Revel in these indulgences while you can: The rest of Uzbekistan does not offer such luxuries.

The pace of life diminishes noticeably as you drift out of Tashkent's sprawl. Aside from irrigation projects and the occasional gas station, not much punctures the static Uzbekistan countryside on the way to Samarkand. Car trips, however, are an excellent excuse to stock up on local melons sold at roadside fruit stands. It sounds odd, but Uzbekistan (and most of Central Asia for that matter) is melon crazy. They eat them by the truckload and with good reason--Uzbekistan grows some of the best morning dew melons and watermelon in the world. With over 160 varieties to choose from, you could spend weeks sampling these honey-sweet fruits of paradise. Samarkand’s marvels have entranced travelers for centuries, and its current incarnation retains examples of the most impressive Islamic architecture in the world. In the heart of the city lies the Registan, a medieval bazaar surrounded by three imposing madrassas (Islamic schools) covered in spectacular azure mosaics. This breathtaking religious center dates back to the 15th century and is best viewed after "tipping" a local security guard to take you to the top of one of the minarets marking the plaza corners. Other important sites include the Shahr-I-Zindah tombs in the eastern part of the city and the delicate beauty of the Guri Amir Mausoleum's tiled dome. For a more morbid moment, Shahr-I-Zindah warrants extra time to explore the surrounding graveyards which include on each headstone uncanny portraits of the interred.

Six hours west of Samarkand lays the next oasis, Bukhara, once famed as the "Pillar of Islam" in Central Asia. Celebrated for fostering the Persian poets Firdausi and Rudaki, the ancient city once housed over 100 madrassas and 300 mosques while serving as the capital of the Uzbek Shaybanids during the 16th century. Fortunately, not much has changed since then, although various squeaky-clean restoration projects sometimes make it feel like a theme park. Remedy this by venturing deep into the winding alleys of the old city where children play in the streets and old ladies wearing garish scarves venture out of their courtyards to peruse the local vegetable markets.

Aside from markets, mosques and fortresses, Bukhara was notorious for the line of Emirs who ruled the region from 1753 until the Soviet occupation in the 1920's. Known for tyrannical tempers and lascivious dispositions, most of their days were spent doling out punishments and cavorting in their harems. Just outside of Bukhara, you can still visit the summer palace of the last Emir, Alim Khan. The fantastically tacky building fuses Soviet architecture with Islamic design and includes a wooden pavilion where the Emir would throw down an apple to the concubine he wished to take to bed that evening.

The next leg to Khiva is another six-hour drive across one of the most barren sections of the Kyzylkum Desert (hint: bring melons). Drifting sands blow ominously across the tarmac, serving as a grim reminder of the hardships endured by caravans plying the route at the height of the Silk Road's prominence. Persevere and you'll eventually reach the Amyu-Darya river delta, which has been settled for almost six millennia. Legend has it that Shem, son of Noah (yeah, that Noah), found a well here and decided to settle down.

Khiva later rose to power, and for centuries hosted one of the most dreaded slave markets in the world. Despite the bad karma, it has amazingly well-preserved city walls and, more importantly, the Tosh-Khovli Palace is decorated with the most staggeringly complex tile work in Central Asia. You can also escape into the desert to see uninhabited Silk Road fortresses slowly crumbling into the surrounding landscape. At the end of the day, climb the Kukhna Arc and lose yourself in a bottle of beer while watching the sun set over Khiva's minarets and domes.

A trip across Uzbekistan can be packed into a week, but plan in an extra day or two in case the flight from Khiva to Tashkent is delayed. Wanderers with more time should complete the final seven-hour drive to Moynaq, the real end of the line in Uzbekistan. There you'll witness the tragic consequences of the retreating Aural Sea, which left this once prosperous fishing village out to dry-literally. Otherwise, make a run for the border and see if you can talk your way into Turkmenistan.

The Silk Road doesn't stop until Rome.

Details:

Four excellent ways to see Uzbekistan’s Silk Road sights:

COUNTRY HOLIDAYS RMB21,940 for eight days, http://www.countryholidays.com.cn

AVANTOUR US$680 (does not include international airfare), monthly departure, http://www.advantour.com

GAP ADVENTURES May 19-Jun 8, US$2,115 (does not include international airfare), this trip goes all the way form Tashkent to Tehren, hitting the main Uzbek sites as well as Turkmenistan and Iran, http://www.gapadventures.com

ORIENT-GO 10 day Uzbekistan tour, http://www.orient-go.com