American Flavor

We red, white and blue-blooded Americans are naturally suspicious of any culinary establishment that purports to serve our native cuisine and dares to tack an extra vowel onto the name of our most hallowed cooking tool, the grill. Despite the suspiciously French spelling, the stolid, den-like décor (with feeble stabs at Americana like a fake marlin on the wall and some garish Halloween lights) Union Bar & Grille, we soldiered on, ordering what seemed like a sure bets off of a somewhat sparse menu. We are happy to report that whatever doubts we harbored about this particular “grille” evaporated with the appetizers’ arrival. Although the seared ahi tuna (RMB55) was a little tepid, a humble field greens salad (RMB25) paired with a knockout balsamic dressing set our taste buds tingling. The mains kept the good times rolling with a perfectly seared burger (RMB78) sandwiched between two pillowy buns and a side order of scalloped potatoes (RMB20) that exercised the twin virtues of creamy and crunchy in perfect proportion. A delicately constructed molten chocolate cake (RMB38) gave the evening a final graceful note. One caveat: the wait staff’s English could use some polishing. To minimize frustration, be sure to bring a Mandarin-speaking friend or two.

Matt Schrader