There is food and there is culture. But sometimes eating goes beyond practical necessity and becomes culture itself. That’s the grand proposition behind Jiajingdu Peking Duck. The place is tricked out like a fancy old siheyuan (“circa Ming-Qing transition” according to “Empress” Chen) and every guest is treated like an Emperor, literally. The trappings were meticulously researched and a pile of RMB was poured into the project, resulting in one of the most unique Imperial dining experiences in Beijing. From the calligrapher who pens your official “ya piao” (duck receipt) to the lao taitai in the bathroom who pours water over your hands, every effort is made to roll back the clock a few centuries. The waitstaff are all modeled after palace employees from the Tang, Song, Ming, and Qing Dynasties and “even patrons have a role to play,” according to Chen. Do not neglect to check out the stone carvings in the bathrooms. Food-wise, order the ¥299 set menu for simplicity. Admire the sculptures which adorn the plates and savor the signature duck (a la carte for ¥99) baked in a stone oven on the premises. The head chef is, seriously, 25 generations removed from Gugong. Imperial, indeed. - LAM