I really enjoyed this place before, when it was a chill little bar called Lugar. That said, I always thought one its biggest weaknesses then was that it didn't have a more substantial menu, as the vibe of the interior seemed to favor a "stop and sit" cafe rather than a "stand and mingle" bar.

It appears that the owner's a mind reader, as he brought in Fu Rui, owner of a little Italian cafe just down the street on Nanluoguxiang (name escapes me at the moment), to develop a more complete menu. Leafing through it, I was really impressed by what was on offer, especially given the prices, with most main dishes somewhere between 20 and 35 kuai.

I decided to go with a vegetable gnocci salad and a bowl of pumpkin soup. They were both pretty good, but I've had better salad and better soup elsewhere in Beijing. What really impressed me afterwards though was how Fu Rui came up and quizzed me afterwards about what I liked and didn't like about the meal. Sometimes owners and chefs, despite their protests to the contrary, can be defensive about others critiquing their food. There was none of that here.

Bottom line: the food is good and cheap (and likely will improve as the owner continues to solicit suggestions), the wifi is speedy (if a little wonky sometimes), they have a cozy little open roof, they still have the same great drinks menu from Lugar, and they're open, kitchen and all, until 2am every freaking day. I look forward to spending a significant part of my summer here.

Eat Well

Former bar Lugar has been turned into a cozy cafe. If eating healthy is high on your list of priorities heading into the summer months, this is the perfect place for a bite. Virtually everything on the menu is a great value for money. The sandwiches and mains are particular standouts. A bowl of gnocchi with mixed vegetables drizzled in balsamic vinegar (¥22) primed us for an order of chicken in basil pesto (¥25/small, ¥30/large), both of which we found very agreeable. We followed up with a strawberry yogurt smoothie (¥20)—a delightful cup filled with the flavor of fresh strawberries. Drinks, while still reasonable, aren’t quite the deal like the food is, though this is offset by the fact that the new restaurant keeps Lugar’s wide selection of high quality drinks. Throw in a pleasant open roof and a kitchen that’s open until 2am every day, and this new eatery’s transformation from bar to cafe is quite impressive.

Matt Schrader