Cool Courtyard

Tucked in the increasingly gentrified Banchang Hutong, 18 Tea Garden serves up delicious Italian fare in a tranquil courtyard. Bathed in rust and celadon hues, the traditional interior belies an equally thoughtful, mostly-organic menu and two dozen choices of the namesake beverage.

The quiche, part of our quiche and pasta set lunch (¥75), was closer to a gourmet mushroom omelet, rather than the crusty, savory tart we had anticipated, but the à la carte smoked duck breast salad (¥42), accented with orange slices, won us over with its artful presentation and balanced flavors. The foccacia-style handmade bread (¥28 for four slices) isn’t a value-minded choice, but it does have a well-rounded taste characteristic of careful preparation and is supported by an accompanying trio of pesto, lentils and tapenade.

Our set lunch carbonara, prepared with freshly fried bacon, grated parmesan and egg yolk, proved a surprise hit. The prosciutto pizza with arugula (¥58) is loaded with paper thin slices of cured ham and parmesan, and sprinkled with fresh greenery atop a crispy thin crust. Pizza enthusiasts may decry the lack of mozzarella, but we admire the daring to showcase quality ingredients rather than mask them with a glob of cheese.

Don’t skip dessert—the house-made ganache-covered walnut cake (¥18) is not to be missed. The tea list offers traditional brews served in a three piece porcelain set, as well as the more weather-appropriate iced honey citron tea (¥15/glass). Attentive service and a serene environment make 18 Tea Garden a perfect setting an intimate afternoon rendezvous.

Phoenix Torrijos