Michelle Garnault’s third restaurant, in the making for seven years, has finally arrived. The huge space is divided into various dining rooms and lounges, and there are several outdoor terraces. The decor is a modern update on art deco, with a huge painted mural running along one wall. Most eyes, however, are on the stunning view, as the restaurant looks directly onto Tian’anmen Square.

If you’re aiming to impress a dinner date, Capital M is the place. Well-heeled diners are already flocking to this new hotspot, reveling in the atmosphere, reclining on comfortable sofas and warming themselves by the fireplaces.

The menu, grounded in seasonal tastes, will change every few months. While we were a bit nervous about the pigeon with boudin noir (¥112), the crispy poultry was well complemented by the slightly sweet, spiced blood sausage. Our favorite appetizer was the tortelli with pumpkin, ricotta and mustard fruits (¥98), served with crispy sage and butter sauce with hints of citrus. The hothouse-smoked salmon served with sautéed spinach and an organic poached egg (¥248), while certainly healthy, was a little bland. The risotto with mushrooms, mascarpone and rocket (¥188) had a much richer flavor and is a good choice for a chilly night.

After the view, the most impressive thing about M is the grand dessert platter (¥108/person). The two tiers of sweets include an outstanding crème brulee and a large slice of M’s famous pavlova, deliciously accentuated with passion fruit sauce.

Sienna Parulis-Cook