Fresh and Inventive

4.5/5 stars

With an affordable menu of straightforward, well executed food and excellent service, Switch—by Culinary Capers catering—makes a trip to 798 all the more appealing. The relaxed, light-filled venue is well suited for a meal before or after a tour of the galleries, but it’s worth visiting on its own merits.

The brunch, lunch and dinner menus all share some of the same dishes and similar prices. The Switch salad (¥45), available at both lunch and brunch, combines chicken, penne pasta, artichoke hearts, high-quality bacon and olives, as well as subtle hints of feta cheese. The result is a satisfying mix of fresh, savory flavors. The conchiglioni pasta (¥65/lunch, ¥50/dinner) is a ridiculously creamy, rich dish that brings together shrimp, scallops and large shell-shaped pasta. It’s simple, but done just right. The lunchtime sandwiches include a grilled chicken focaccia (¥45) that’s made with brie, spinach and an excellent and creative cranberry aioli. All sandwiches come with a side of yam fries. While healthier than potatoes, their sweetness may not appeal to everyone—an option of a side salad or traditional French fries would be welcome. For dessert, the “donuts in a bag” (¥35) are six large donut holes, served in a cute paper bag. They’re coated in cinnamon sugar and come with a portion of mascarpone and fruit compotes for dipping. It’s admirable that Switch is successful in turning this somewhat low-brow sweet into something both gourmet and playful.

The wine list is a very nice mix of New and Old World, organized by flavor and with very competitive prices. Just be careful about when you come to Switch to enjoy a bottle and a meal—the restaurant is closed on Mondays and only stays open late Wednesday through Saturday.

Sienna Parulis-Cook