You wouldn’t expect to find a slice of Tuscany in the middle of the Solana shopping mall, but dinner on the deck of Invito transported us straight out of Beijing. The combination of bold Italian flavors in a refined, lakeside atmosphere is a winner.

A first course of foie gras with porcini mushrooms was a ¥138 showstopper. The richness of the dish was enhanced, not overwhelmed, by a creamy onion sauce. For a second course of pasta, the Tuscany style gnocchi (¥56 for a half portion) was freshly homemade and melt-in-mouth fantastic. A half portion of crab ravioli (¥62) with broccoli cream and crayfish was a bit on the al dente side for our taste, but had a nice balance of flavors. By a certain point in the evening, however, it gets quite dark on the secluded deck, and it was a bit difficult to see the details of our main dish. Nevertheless, the roasted veal loin with porcini mushrooms in a shallot basket (¥168) tasted great, with an artful presentation and a perfectly cooked cut of meat.

Wine aficionados will also go wild for Invito’s two Enomatic machines. These are wine dispensers that keep air out, allowing even the most expensive bottles to be served by the glass. This makes perfect wine pairings possible with each course, without ordering an entire wallet-busting bottle. Only open for a few weeks, Invito has a few understandable kinks to work out. Given more time, it’s sure to age, like a fine wine, into something unforgettable.