Kro's Nest乌巢
霄云路35号
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Delivering gargantuan pizzas and an exhaustive list of other American favorites like funnel cakes, onion rings and curly fries, this restaurant has gone through quite a few incarnations and retains a very loyal following. The huge space is filled with everything from free arcade games to an entire wall of home-grown spices.
All Krown Up
After a bout of intense, exhaustively documented controversy, the proprietor of what was once Beijing’s most popular pizza places has opened a new, identically named pizzeria that is both much more—and just a little less—than the old place.
The new restaurant screams ambition. Its scale dwarfs most other restaurants in Beijing. Home-grown spices cover an entire wall of the main dining area. Arcade machines stocked with classic games stand at the entrance. The new menu adds a fleet of new dishes.
With all this addition, it’s gratifying that Kro’s workhorse pizza, a New York-style behemoth, hasn’t suffered. If anything, it’s better. The crust is fluffier, and the cheese doesn’t bog down towards the middle of the pie like at the old Kro’s. A medium “artery clogger” (topped with most of the meats mankind puts on pizza, ¥135) was enough delicious pizza to put us into an evening-long food coma.
But the newcomers aren’t all so successful. On a second visit we tried another “artery clogger,” this time Chicago-style (¥160). It came to the table lukewarm and topping-deficient. We could taste the milk in a strawberry milkshake (¥34), but less so the strawberry. Flavored Coke (we tried vanilla, ¥25) was similarly under-flavored. The Rice Krispie pie (¥45) is more intriguing in concept than in practice. But light and crispy onion rings (¥25) were a welcome exception, hands-down the best we’ve had in Beijing.
Like at the old Kro’s, service is uneven. Some fuwuyuan are friendly, attentive and English-proficient. Others appear to have just flown in from Mars—not unusual in Beijing, but frustrating nonetheless. Kro & Co. are swinging for the fences with this one. That they’ve only hit a triple is still more than enough to earn them a hearty welcome back.
Matt Schrader
