Classic Cakes

First established in 1952 in Hong Kong, this restaurant’s first branch on the Chinese Mainland embraces a pre-revolutionary Russian aesthetic. The chef claims to have learned the secrets of Russian cuisine from a famous Russian chef over 30 years ago, but the tastes have clearly been infused with many a Hong Kong twist over the past decades. The food’s overpriced for Beijing, and not authentically Russian. After all, what Russian would trade a meaty ¥12 bowl of borsch in White Nights or Traktir for a ¥39 meat-free version at Queen’s? But Beijing’s Russian population—at least the usual Yabao Lu crowd—is clearly not the target market.

The restaurant offers a number of carefully designed set menus. The simplest start at ¥120 and include Russian salad, borsch, shashlik kebabs, coffee or tea. The swankiest feature lobster and cost ¥480. The less pricey option is the ¥70 lunch set, which includes a bowl of soup, a meat dish, salad and coffee or tea with dessert. We tried a small plate of zakuska (¥75), a traditional potato-based Russian salad with lots of mayo and a selection of assorted ham, a chicken stroganoff (¥85) with cream and tomato sauce and French fries, and rice with baked pork chop (¥80). All the dishes were heavy and simple.

The overwhelming dessert selection is Queen’s saving grace. The blueberry cake (¥50 with tea or coffee) is delicious. The ¥140 afternoon tea set for two comes with tea or coffee, finger sandwiches and a selection of desserts, including an Italian tiramisu that melts in your mouth.

Inna Levinson