The Elephant 大笨象
Ritan Shangjie, Courtyard 39, Shenlu Jie,
Ritan
near Ritan Beilu
神路街39号院日坛上街
近日坛北路
8561-4013
Price Y100-Y199 per couple
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- City Weekend
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The fourth branch of the popular Russian restaurant offers an extensive range of mediocre but hearty Russian and Chinese dishes, with a decent peppery Pork-Stuffed Cabbage and buttery Chicken Kiev. The fare is certainly hearty, but you feel the chefs aren't putting their heart into the borscht and potato latkes. Perhaps they're distracted by the dancing girls.
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Don't be confused by the checkered tablecloths, green-upholstered booths or photographs of Western celebrities lining the walls. This might be Siberia’s version of TGI Friday's, but as Beijing's fourth Elephant, expect reliable Russian meat n' potatoes—in addition to burgers and fries. We began with a bowl of Borscht (¥25), not your grandma's thick, blended variety, but satisfying nonetheless. "Shouba" Style Herring Salad (¥30), a mayo-laden beet and cabbage slaw, was light on fish, but peppery Pork-stuffed Cabbage (¥40) and buttery Chicken Kiev (¥40) both compensated with hearty portions. Rather than douse the Pancakes with Red Caviar (aka "Russian Soul") (¥48) in sour cream to offset the brine, conserve the cream for "Latkes" Potato Pancakes (¥28), a throw-back to Chanukahs past. Whether a glass of Gold Anto vodka (¥10), Stoli (¥20), or imported draft (¥30) is the tipple of choice, Elephant will satisfy. There's no jukebox to tee up, but "Careless Whisper," on repeat, will carry you through the Siberian night.