Making a Splash

This former Ch’ienmen 23 restaurant has made a truly welcome return to the Beijing dining scene. Chef Jordi Valles impresses with his talent and dedication, and the food is a treat for both the eyes and the palate. The unique contemporary Spanish cuisine is on par with Mosto for excellence, with a tendency towards homey flavors and a lack of pretention that is particularly commendable.

This lack of pretention extends into all aspects of the restaurant. Servers are professional but friendly, and seem to genuinely enjoy their jobs. The ambiance is more relaxed than at Ch’ienmen 23. The slightly conservative interior is sophisticated but comfortable, with white brick walls, an open kitchen, nice lighting and pleasant jazz at just the right volume.

The food is stunning. Beef and porcini ravioli (¥98) are intensely flavorful, served in a gloriously creamy sauce. The sea bream (¥185) is topped with a stimulating, slightly smoky mixture of pimentos, capers and thin slices of pickled garlic, and cooked in sherry vinegar. The fish is infused with a subtle sourness which contrasts perfectly with the sweet rounds of pumpkin served with it. Slow cooked Wagyu veal cheek (¥180) is so tender it almost falls apart on the plate, adorned with marinated plums for a rich, autumnal flavor.

The coulant of Caraibe chocolate (¥58) is a lava cake-like dessert, made fresher and lighter by the very subtle addition of basil. It pairs very well with a glass of Spanish sherry (¥40). Still, we can’t get enough of Agua’s signature torrija (¥48), a creamy dessert we’ve missed deeply in the restaurant’s absence.

Already booked full on weekends, it’s clear that Agua is making a splash, and we can’t wait to return.

Sienna Parulis-Cook