With the influx of tapas restaurants to Beijing, it’s becoming difficult to sort out the impressive from the merely imitative. At first glance, this Nanluoguxiang courtyard, with its dark wood tables and Chinese curios, appeared to be the latter. But then we tried the tapas. The delicately stacked sautéed mushrooms (¥25) were a bit salty, but the Mediterranean garden salad (¥28) and bread with fresh pesto helped balance the flavors. Served in a cocotte, the spicy garlic prawns (¥48) were tasty, but the star of the meal was the grilled baby lamb (¥38) placed atop a surprisingly good ratatouille. From the red lamps in the courtyard to the rose-shaped Parma ham and goat cheese bruschetta (¥35), everything in the restaurant is well presented and thoroughly classic. The attentive head waiter even paced our tapas so we had time to enjoy some Spanish white wine (¥45/glass) without any dish getting cold. It’s a shame Tapas Café didn’t open a season earlier, but it will make a great outdoor date spot until winter arrives and we’re reminded that we live in Beijing, not Barcelona.

Paul Wegerson