Meatless Eats

3.5/5 stars

Sanlitun diners are spoiled for choice, but until recently vegetarians haven’t had a home of their own. Enter Loving Mom’s Vegan Cuisine. With a growing menu that runs the gamut from mock-meat entrées to raw desserts, this unpretentious, affordable joint has something for everyone, whether you’re a bona fide seitan worshipper or just tired of finding pork where you least expect it.

From the neon sign reading “benevolence” to the names of the dishes, it’s clear that Loving Mom’s is on a mission both social and gastronomic. When we tried “golden age delicacy” (¥39), a takeoff on kaoya that substitutes fried tofu skins for duck, the owner told us that the name references her hopes for things to come. We agree that this dish bodes well for future generations, but we’d prefer less salt in the dipping sauce.

The décor is a bit hodge-podge, with children’s drawings and beaded curtains, but it’s a fitting complement to the simple, flavorful dishes. “Savory kabobs” (¥28) are well seasoned, if a bit dry, and the meaty texture is closer to chuan’r than you’d expect from a vegan substitute. Mustard-flavored cabbage (¥22) is fresh and has just the right amount of tang. The faux-fish “lemongrass deluxe” (¥68) wasn’t quite the catch of the day, but we finished it anyway. The menu is Chinese-style vegetarian reminiscent of Still Thoughts, but the owners are planning to add Western dishes soon. For diners looking for a solid vegetarian menu without the flashy theatrics of Pure Lotus, Loving Mom’s is a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

Shepherd Laughlin