Courtyard Chic

4.5/5 stars

Down the end of a squiggle of hutongs, Susu is not exactly on the beaten track. But this place is worth finding, and—given the crowd on a Friday night three weeks in—many have already made the effort. The ambiance is exceptional, the service commendable and the food, while not perfect, is good for Vietnamese in Beijing.

We’ve seen a lot of renovated courtyards, but none quite so stunning as Susu. The gorgeous outdoor area and semi-private rooftop seating, coupled with perfect lighting and lovely interior décor, will leave diners fantasizing about the possibilities for hutong gentrification.

Susu serves a good selection of large, beautifully presented Vietnamese spring rolls. The classic shrimp and pork roll (¥38) tastes of summer gardens, with its plentiful portions of fresh cilantro, mint and tender mango. Only the overly thick skin keeps it from reaching full potential. The papaya beef salad (¥42) is crunchy and bright, with juicy cuts of beef and subtly sweet, tropical undertones. The chicken pho (¥42) is good for Beijing, but despite the tasty broth, the flavors are so clean and simple that they verge on bland. A house specialty, the la vong fish (¥108) is served on a huge bed of fennel, and both are mixed together with vermicelli, fresh herbs, crushed peanuts, rice crackers, and a shrimp and fish gravy that brings the whole thing together. Cocktails are good, too—get the Saigon fizz (¥50), a refreshing mix of gin and ginger.

A large number of dishes can be made vegetarian on request, which is just one of the ways the restaurant goes out of its way to accommodate. Servers’ abilities to anticipate guests’ needs and give recommendations, as well as their flexibility and English skills, are all impressive.

Sienna Parulis-Cook