Beijing's version of this high-end lounge chain is decked out in sleek grays and blues and offers spacious intimacy to upscale crowds. CJW stands for cigar, wine and jazz but they do it up in a atmosphere a little livelier than their competitors with a dance floor where suit and tie patrons swing their lissom partners around. Excellent cocktails and a full kitchen make CJW more than just another place to get juiced. Perfect for puffing a Cuban in style.

“A cigar is like a woman,” says Eric, CJW’s energetic Taiwanese boss, waving around a half-smoked Cuban, “both of them you must take very good care of.” That is the kind of place the new CJW is. It’s for cigar-smokers, it’s for champagne connoisseurs, it’s for hopeless romantics with the cash to make things happen.

CJW (Cigar Jazz Wine) is actually a chain of clubs which started in Taipei, spread to Shanghai and only now has set down roots in the capital. Eric is rolling the dice that Beijingers are finally ready to appreciate things other than chua’r and 10 kuai shots. He may be right. Opening night was packed to the hilt and the house band, fronted by a genuinely talented Vegas jazz singer, wowed the crowds. By the end of the night, the dance floor was moving.

Numerous details set up CJW as the high end of the high-end. The acoustics, helped immeasurably by the back alcove, are excellent; the waitstaff has received more training than most Olympic athletes; and the cocktails (RMB68) are mixed expertly, not just thrown together. But it’s the dance floor that’s so intriguing, it’s what sets it apart from Centro and what will ultimately portend CJW’s fate. If you see the high-rollers swaying their way around the dance floor, CJW will go down in legend. Otherwise, it will just go down.