Curry laksa is a spicy, coconut-based noodle soup that fuses Chinese and Malay cuisines. It’s wildly popular in Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and some parts of Thailand. Ask anyone from the above countries and there will be a heated debate about what makes a good laksa. We scoured the city for the best laksas in Shanghai and here’s what we found.
Address: Rm. E04, B2, Hubindao, 150 Hubin Lu (near Jinan Lu) 湖滨路150号湖滨道B2楼E04 (近济南路)
Laksa Noodle Kitchen comes from the team behind Café Sambal, the city’s longstanding purveyors of upmarket Malaysian food. Since opening this past February, they’ve improved on consistency and flavor, offering an authentic, full-flavored laksa (RMB43). It’s a well-presented bowl with fresh, quality ingredients. It’s the best we tried, plus its affordable, and we wholeheartedly recommend it.
Address: 1701 Xinzha Lu (near Changde Lu) 新闸路1701号 (近常德路)
Malacca Hainanese Chicken Rice does more than just chicken rice. This family-run hole-in-the-wall does some great Malaysian food for real cheapm abd their Nyonya Laksa (RMB45) packs a punch. It’s a spicy curry broth thickened with coconut cream and spices of fresh galangal and chili. The vermicelli noodles are amply topped with prawns (again, not the best quality), deep-fried tofu, fish balls and shredded chicken. The hearty portion will have you sniffling into the bowl in no time.
Address: 91 Xingguo Lu (near Hunan Lu) 兴国路91号 (近湖南路)
is one of our favorites for contemporary Asian food, and their laksa has basked in high praise for years. The heat is turned down a notch, but the soup is fragrant and full-bodied, with umami-rich prawn paste and lots of laksa leaves. We're not too fond of the shredded cucumber and it's also herbier and less creamy than we’re used to, but we love it. This is perhaps the most gourmet, and at RMB108, there is no doubt some sticker shock, but quality comes at a price.
Address: 8/F, Parkson, 918 Huaihai Zhong Lu (near Shaanxi Nan Lu) 淮海中路918号8楼 (近陕西南路)
Food Fusion is our go-to when we want to sate our Southeast Asian street-stall cravings. The Malaysian restaurant chain is mostly found in shopping malls, but also available for delivery via several delivery services. This laksa (RMB42) is unabashedly street-style—oily with a bright red sheen on the surface and sufficiently creamy with a lingering spiciness that hitches in the back of your throat. It also comes with a free drink during lunch. Multiple locations.
Address: 1788 Xinzha Lu (near Yanping Lu) 新闸路1788号 (近延平路)
Orchard CRC is the granddaddy of Southeast Asian restaurants in Shanghai. Operating for more than 10 years, this Singaporean restaurant is way overdue for a face lift--gaudy chandeliers and scuffed floorboards are a telling sign. The menu is an almanac of Singaporean dishes from famous stir-fries to obscure street foods. In a way, the laksa (45) is true to its street food roots, as it’s sloppily cobbled together, oily with a lingering kick in the back of the throat and tasty. We’d say the soup is drinkable, but strain the oil first.
Hungry Lung’s Kitchen
Yongkang Lu: 99 Jiashan Lu (near Yongkang Lu) 嘉善路99号(近永康路), Tel: 5465-5291
Crystal Galleria: 5/F, Crystal Galleria, 66 Yuyuan Lu (near Changde Lu) 愚园路68号晶品5层 (近常德路), Tel: 6271-3196
K11: 4/F, K11, 300 Huaihai Zhong Lu (near Madang Lu) 淮海中路300号上海K11购物艺术中心4层 (近马当路), Tel: 6328-8703
Raffles Changning: 1/F, Raffles City Changning, 1123 Changning Lu (near Kaixuan Lu) 长宁路1123号 (近凯旋路), Tel: 6299-0560
Hungry Lung's Kitchen has two versions: grilled chicken, tofu and quail eggs (RMB68) or 7-spice shrimp, fish, tofu and quail egg (RMB75). The soup is mild in spice but well balanced, and is one of the few bowls we willingly drank to the last drop. We appreciated the fresh tofu and and the skewered shrimp, though skinny in portion was extremely tasty.
Address: L5-508, 5/F, IAPM, 999 Huaihai Zhong Lu (near Shaanxi Nan Lu) 淮海中路999号iapm广场5楼L5-508 (近陕西南路)
Known for their Hainanese chicken rice, Sergeant’s Singaporean Laksa (RMB58) is passable for a lunch hour rush if you’re craving in the vicinity of IAPM. The soup is spicier and noticeably saltier, and it has way more toppings (four boiled, peeled prawns) than others. We did notice other patrons asking for extra chili paste to spice up their broth. Sergeant is a place that turns over covers, and is more of a slurp-and-go stop.
Address: 3/F, Xintiandi South Plaza, Bldg 6, 123 Xingye Lu (near Huangpi Nan Lu) 兴业路123号新天地6号3楼 (近黄陂南路)
Molokai was recommended to us with high praise, but the laksa (RMB56) falls short compared to others on this list. It was served almost immediately after ordering, but was poorly assembled and sans bean sprouts, which we noted to the waitstaff, and a handful of the sprouts were added in. The broth is on the lighter side and not as oily, certainly drinkable. The fried, peeled prawn had a strong white pepper coating that jousted with the flavor of the mild soup. It’s OK if you’re in a rush, but it’s not our favorite.
Address: No. 37, 259 Jiashan Lu (near Jianguo Xi Lu) 嘉善路259弄37号 ()
Despite our love for the consistency and quality of the laksa at Laksa Noodle Kitchen, big brother Cafe Sambal misses the mark. The Nyonya curry laksa (RMB68) was thick and powdery, more curry chicken sauce than curry broth. However, the prawns, tofu, fish cake and stir-fried long beans were fresh and flavorful. To be fair, chef just arrived back in town, so maybe it’s a case of an inattentive sous chef.
This article was originally posted in November 2017.
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